Category: DENIM BRANDS
|January 6, 2013||Filled under Agave Denim, Bergdorf Goodman, EDITORIAL, Gary's, Mario's 3.10, MENS STYLE TOPICS, Mitchell's, Supima Cotton, The Independent, VIDEOS, VK Nagrani, Wilkes Bashford|
The Dirty Dozen
What’s a sock? If you were to ask Vivek Nagrani, he’d tell you “everything, a sock is an accessory that distinguishes a gentleman from the masses”. I had the opportunity to catch up with my favorite sock whore over a drink and get the dirty details of the Dirty Dozen.
Nagrani — who was born in India, moved to Brooklyn as a young child, and graduated from USC in 1994 with a Business degree but didn’t just toss his hat and dive into the sock business. I mean who are we kidding- in 1994 did denim really matter? To me yes, but the average Joe only thought was his shirt. Times are changing and frankly, if you’re sock drawer still consists of white athletic socks, black dress socks, and random mis-matched grey’s…. Hunnie, it is time to evolve and take life a little less seriously and your sock drawer a little more seriously! It’s the small things in life that can give you the greatest rewards.
Why socks? “because of jeans” with the rise of full-time casual dressing, the high-low concept V found himself uninspired by his sock drawer. We’ve got amazing options for sport jackets, signature shirts, cool jeans, denim belts, and casual shoes made for jeans but then you guys have been left with shitty athletic socks or black dress socks that bunch up in your shoe.
“Why, I ask, can a man be put on the moon, but we cannot make a sock that stays up?”-VK Nagrani… and so it all began…. Vivek designed and produced his first 312 pairs of socks; why 312… it was all he could afford at the time. Today, staying true to his heritage he only creates 312 units of every each color. So, if you like a design you’d better snag it.
VK’s favorite jeans: The Levi’s 501 tweeked by a tailor to trim the leg….
When are you bringing the Casanova Sock back: … HE STILL WON’T TELL ME!
You can find V with a great bottle of wine and an assortment of colored pencils designing the next season’s collections that men will be fighting over to feed their new found addiction. “A man will match his sock to his trousers; a gentleman will match his sock to his mood.” VK Nagrani
V is passionate about socks.. and underwear He is proud to have “changed the way men view a product they never really thought about” and he has changed the way the industry, stylists, and brands view a sock as well. From playing with toys to playing with your style, life should always have a playful touch. There is a reason why it’s called a Lifestyle! There are two sock collections that he produces. One is part of the VK Nagrani Collection and the other is a brand new Collection that is for the tastefully absurd. Ugly Vix; good style gone bad! When the fear subsides and you feel the power you’ve gained by taking this sartorial adventure and begin buying items that move you and YOU actually like; you’ll enjoy a little bit more of your day. If yu are willing to to sport something more tastefully absurd Ugly Vix is there to carry on; with an assortment of forward designs playfully priced so you don’t kill the bank; playing. His “basic” socks start at $30.00 and up from there. You and I both know that you need a sartorial kick in the pants.
Did you know that Fred Astair had a thing for orange socks? What is your style? Your wife or g/f shopping for you is not YOUR style and you are doing yourself a huge injustice by letting them choose for you. Find your style and then let them re-fill the closet with YOU in mind, if you must. Finding your style is not an easy task, it take some getting to know yourself and you have to learn what the options are. Everyone is overwhelmed when walking into most stores; thankfully that’s why specialty stores exist. They offer a small assortment of great product with a specific perspective and they come along with a stylist to help guide the way for no extra charge. Vivek is one of the few that have more style than the average Joe, and can get away with wearing a table cloth as a cape because he’s just that…. je ne sais quoi. Thie difference: he owns it and rocks it with a kick in his step and you know he’s not gay. So, I don’t want to hear it. If a man can wear a sock with some personality…still be professional and successful; so can you. I know plenty! There was a day when a man wore a sock up to his knee where it kissed their trousers buttoned just below the knee. Could you imagine what the Aristocrats would have done if they could have gotten a hold of these babies… I’m sure Michelangelo would have had a bit more fun!
The sock trend started by the fashion aristocracy that frequent the menswear shows each year in Milan, Paris, and New York. You guys don’t have as many choices in menswear as women do but your ability to execute flawlessly and express your style and personality through your wardrobe has a higher success rate than it does for women. Socks are in the same category as a tie and pocket square and what makes it so versatile is its heritage among dandies and rebels alike. Socks are a subtle way to add a bit of personality into your wardrobe. They should never be a statement piece; these are accessories not sportswear. If you are just now becoming curious about this steez you should let VK Nagrani sock it to ya; because it is just not the unique design, it’s a better sock; that will actually STAY UP!… and the ladies will always take notice.
Another oldie but goodie, we’ve got V shopping with one of his clients that is open to the idea of taking his boring daily ensemble to the next level. He’s got some great pointers on how to put it all together, choose a sock and take that pink shirt you’ve worn twice and turn it into your favorite. Every day in a blue shirt and navy suit can get mundane, day in and day out without and real accessories. Add a pocket square with a hint of orange, grab a brown, tan textured tie and grab a killer sock that complements the palate and you might just find you have a more productive day. The best thing about V is that he tells you as it is; just like myself when I was working with my clients- we’ll tell you if its bad, absurd, not YOU or a disaster. When we say it’s good- own it! I ain’t shittin’ ya! Our reputations rely’s on the complements you receive!
VK started with 312 socks so you could wear them with jeans, the best underwear so you can wear the right jeans and now has launched a sportswear collection for all the times you’re not sporting your denim. His lounge wear is amazingly soft with a modern style. His suiting is impeccable and travels well.
SHOP NOW - don’t forget to you the coupon code “Golden Ticket” to make sure you get spoiled, because I’ve got a hook up for you.
——————————–The Dirty Dozen: Let VK choose 12 for pairs for you to get your sock drawer dialed in!
The Butt Therapist
|September 23, 2012||Filled under Bloomingdale's, DL 1961, EDITORIAL, Neiman Marcus, Saks 5th Avenue|
Battle of the Toosh DL 1961: West Coast vs. East Coast from Coffee to Rappers there has always been a rivalry between the two and which coast is doing it better and who did it right; first. Bringing us to the battle of the toosh’s… and a denim brand that stands out.
Remember back in 2008 when creativity was thriving amongst some nasty rumors that the economy was going to tank- rumor turned to truth and creativity turned to financial management. Specialty store doors began closing shop and it was no longer about throwing a “whim” into the market place to see if it would work. Frankly, I feel it was a blessing in disguise to get rid of the riff raff while making the leaders step it up a notch- in an oversaturated apparel market. Let only the strong survive and infuse innovation to allow products to reach new heights. All able to be done by having the passionate creator and passionate banker fight for market share. It was a tough time for entrepreneurs. Being one of them myself in ‘09 trying to do my part to keep doors open and keep great product in production. A success story worth highlighting is the birth of DL 1961. Most have never heard of the brand and think it is a division of Diesel USA. Let’s address this first. DL 1961 has NOTHING TO DO WITH Diesel USA or 55DSL the juniors Collection of Diesel. I am here to clean your denim palate and introduce you to a brand that has one of the most loyal clientele I’ve ever come across.
Thanks to DL die hards; this denim brand made it through the rough spot and is an established in the denim industry only a mere 4 years later. It all happened in New York City where everyone has a dream and Maliha Almed had a mission to create “the perfect fitting jeans” not so far off from every denim brands mission. Thankfully there are enough body types for several denim brands to live true to their mission. So, you might ask what makes these jeans so different that they have brand loyalty? Well, it all starts with the shape difference of a West Coast and East Coast derriere. Didn’t see that one coming did ya? I’ve been in New York a year now and my body has completely morphed to a new shape. I’m still not sure how I feel about it but for a brand that most likely-unknowingly- tapped a market for the low, tone, heart shape vs. the strong round curve that you’ll find being created in gyms trailing down the Pacific Coast this is a worthy topic of conversation. Daily squats are not part of the NY lifestyle. It’s more like running stairs from platform to platform through the subway tunnels and chasing cabs from Greenwich Village to Mid Town. Different lifestyles lead to different shapes, needs and product specifications are highlighted by some innovator that has the drive or enough frustration to create the solution to a shared problem. You’ve heard it before “it is NEVER a bad time to start a GOOD business”.-Jeff Shafer
Thanks to Maliha; owner and Creative Director or DL 1961 and her husband Faisal developed something pretty special that made the women of The Big Apple clutch their DL 1961 jeans and fueled this dream on to Melrose Avenue from Mercer Street. Both having a soft spot for Pakistan and a love of New York ended up getting sucked into the world of indigo and should be proud that they run their business with strong ethics and stay true to their heritage. To me this is the most powerful and important aspect of any brand. Know who you are. Stay true to your value structure and always be authentic and somewhere along the way make a difference. Maliha wanted great fitting jeans… like most women we are always on the search. Thankfully, she took it a few steps further by creating DL 1961 jeans; and keeping production in her home country. DL 1961 stands for Denim Limited and 1961 is the owner’s birth year now if that is Faisal or Maliha’s birth year I’ll never tell.
Made at home in a denim mill that is renowned for its innovation and technology located in Karachi, Pakistan. One of my dear denim friends, generally referring to me as the Denim Princess is a denim head himself with an astonishing amount of milling knowledge- holding this specific factory to his highest standards and in sharing his expertise also shared many of the most beautiful pictures from around town. Truly, I didn’t know much about the country beyond the tid bits of politics I run across while surfing through landing browsers at 3am researching denim details. Through several mini interviews we went through all the workers compensation, expectations, production processes and safety standards even a little bit about the people making the denim into jeans. Be assured they are very passionate about what they do and are doing a great job making exquisite product. They were one of the 1st organic certified mills, focus on Pakistani grown cotton, they use air jet looms and the Italian rope dying process. Denim heads will always be united with the quest for blue perfection. Don’t you love that passionate people are making jeans and their love for the art is being woven into the denim.
Maliha didn’t just wake up one morning and deiced she liked jeans enough to make them she is quite the denim industry veteran in love withal the fine details that go into the production process. She finds great pleasure in discovering new technologies like X-fit; I wonder what she’ll be up to next. It all started by believing jeans do not have to have an age limit but should always be mindful to your shape.
It all starts with the fabrication… not your typical 98-2 cotton/spandex blend. A little cream in your coffee? “DL1961 Premium Denim is the only brand in the market to exclusively feature jeans made with the innovative 4-WAY stretch XFIT LYCRA® fabric. A fabric that not only molds to each individual’s body but boasts 90% shape retention. XFIT LYCRA® means the end to jeans that sag, bag of” the fabric on your butt.. “It is crafted from a cross-weave technology and this patented stretch formula creates 90 percent less pressure at the joints, inseam and back rise. Resulting in a high performance denim with 360 degrees of movement that will never lose its shape. DL1961 Premium Denim is a vertically integrated brand that is family owned and operated; producing garments for over three generations. It is because of their expertise in denim, their passion for cutting-edge technology and their massive global network of production facilities that they were able to create what is now fittingly called the most revolutionary brand on the market”- DL 1961. Like every good brand they are trying to save the world in their free time; I know I am!
DL1961 Premium Denim has partnered with Pencils of Promise in an effort to educate the 61 million children without access to education around the world. “We vow to donate a portion of online sales to Pencils of Promise for every pair of denim sold between June 1st and August 31st, 2012.” “Pencils of Promise believe every child should have access to quality education. They create schools, programs, and global communities around the common goal of education for all. Believing education creates opportunity and the expansion to every child across the globe. This is the greatest tool for societal development. Right now, there are 61 million children without access to education. Their Promise: 100 Schools in 2012, because it only takes $25 to provide one year of sustainable education to one child. To learn more about PoP’s work, click on the following link: http://www.pencilsofpromise.org”-PoP So the battle of the toosh will continue just as any high school rivalry and through the competition of bringing new technologies to market, more jeans to add to our collection and hopefully it will inspire more denim addicts to become entrepreneurs to express their perception in a few shades of blue and help a few hands along the way. Thank you to all the denim heads, Indigo addicts and loyal denim consumers that keep doors open, looms weaving and the passion for jeans thriving. It is only because of you any of us exist!
Always devoted to denim,
Your Butt Therapist
DL 1961 Glossary:
XFIT LYCRA® (n): 1. the patented 4-way stretch material that provides the perfect fit 2. the only known cure to the fashion condition commonly known as saggijeanitis (see below)
Saggijeanitis (n): the condition of having, owning and/or wearing ill-fitting jeans; may result in extreme fashion emergencies and unflattering outfits. Cross-weave technology (n): the unique formula by which XFIT LYCRA® is woven within the denim fabric to provide 360 degrees of comfort.
90% Retention (n): the ability of DL1961 denim to maintain its original shape after multiple wear X-FITism (n): the state, activity or complete obsession with the DL1961 fit.
DL-ed (v): the act of exclusive conversion to the DL1961 brand and refusal to wear any other denim.
The Denim Movement (n): the revolutionary movement inspired by the loyal DL1961 fans (pretty fricking COOL- check it out!
Spring 2013 a peak inside…. and what is Modal?
I think it’s best if I let them do the talking here! Modal is a natural fiber that is 50% more absorbent than cotton making is perfect for the spring/summer 2013 season.
“Not only does it have gorgeous silk sheen but molds the body better than any other fiber. Modal + XFIT Denim DL1961 is known for being pioneers in XFIT technology. We have now taken denim a step further by combining the XFIT fibers with the modal fibers. This creates the ultimate fit, shape and feel; making it the most superior product on the market today. In past seasons, XFIT is what gave us an advantage over our competitors. With the introduction of Modal+XFIT Denim we blow all of them out of the water. There is really nothing else like this on the market, period. The Ethic For our spring twills we have crafted a fabric using Dual Flex Technology and Modal. This ensures that the DL Spring/Summer twills have 99% shape retention all while still being extremely breathable and lightweight. The Dual Flex Technology gives the garment a power stretch making our twills one of the most”- DL1961
And now what you’ve been waiting for….MY PICKS
1914 Amanda in Ruby
- Zip Fly
- Front Rise 8.25″
- Leg Opening 11″
- Inseam 31 “
- 55% Cotton, 45% Polyester
- *PLEASE IGNORE THE NASTY SHOES SHE’S WEARING!
- Front Rise 10.5″
- Leg Opening 17″
- Inseam 34.5 “
- 55% Cotton, 45% Polyester
Now- go find your new jeans!
|September 5, 2012||Filled under Agave Denim, EVENTS, Mario's 3.10|
You all know my ol’ stomping ground is P-town. Mario and Jeff are like family not a random post; I don’t post random so enjoy a Kai Vodka coacktail, some Agave denim and hang out with my peeps that I desperately miss kickin’ it with! This is one event I am bumbed to be missing for FNO and I am in NYC so I am making sure I share it with you, so you’ll be able to make it for me!
Portland OR, Aug 2012 – Agave Denim, the “Pure West Coast Luxury” company, headquartered on the outskirts of Portland, is celebrating its 10 year anniversary by partnering with Portland’s high profile, luxury retailer, Mario’s, for the nation’s biggest retail event night of the year, Fashion Night Out. The event will take place on Thursday, September 6th.
Agave Denim has much to celebrate like the fact that the company is still independently owned operated and designed by husband and wife team, Jeff and Lauren Shafer. Agave is “Designed in Portland and Handcrafted in California” as the Shafer’s are committed to manufacture in the USA whatever they can.
It was in August 2002 when Jeff hosted a launch party in Las Vegas during the trade show to celebrate the birth of a new premium men’s denim line that it all began. (The word “premium“ had not been coined yet) The Agave niche was the untapped luxury men’s denim market. For the first few months Jeff designed and worked from his living room in Topanga Canyon, California where the Shafers lived at the time. During first years Shafer did everything himself, designed, sold from the trunk of his car and did both production and customer service. The goal then was, and still is, to design, craft and produce beautiful authentic denim products using the best materials and produce everything possible here in the USA. As the brand grew Jeff moved to offices in Santa Monica. Then in 2006 he moved his family and most of the Agave operations from Los Angeles to Ridgefield, WA as he felt it was a better place for his two teenage sons to grow up. In 2007, women’s jeans were added to the collection. It was only when Lauren chose to end her job as stay-at-home mom and return to work full-time designing Agave women’s that the women’s business blossomed. The Shafer’s truly are the perfect partners and design duo, Jeff is a “denim head” focused on fabrics and color and Lauren masters fits, shapes and tailoring.
The Agave Anniversary celebrations at Mario’s will be part of the national event Fashion Night Out, or FNO as its now referred to amongst fashion insiders. FNO has become one of the fashion calendars sought after date, a retail night of fun across the country & the world when customers join with editors, celebrities, models, “fashionistas” and designers to celebrate and shop of course! Last year FNO featured over 4500 events in the US alone and events in eighteen countries.
Agave & Mario’s will celebrate the 10-year Anniversary with an extensive presentation of Agave Fall collection and new preview styles, a live DJ, tapas and more. The Shafer’s also have surprises up their sleeve for the night’s event as some of their special friends and local partners stop by to hello to give a hand in celebrating. More announcements to be made. The celebrations will run from 4-7.00pm at Mario’s downtown Portland store located at 833 Southwest Broadway.
About Agave Denim
Founded in 2002 by Jeff Shafer, Agave has become a must-have for the denim connoisseur looking for quality, luxury & authenticity. Designed in Portland made in Los Angeles California today Agave has expanded to include selvage denim, luxury knits & wovens, a whole range of non-denim jeans, casual pants and Agave womens collection, a full denim and knitwear collection for women designed by Lauren Shafer, Jeffs wife. The label has built a strong following is now sold in over 600 denim and specialty boutiques Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom’s stores around the USA, Canada and Europe.
For more information on the company go to www.agavedenim.com
Mario’s is the leading luxury brand retail store in the Pacific Northwest for men and women, with stores in Portland and Tigard, OR and Seattle, WA. Owned and operated by President Mario Bisio, Mario’s is known for its impeccable customer service and for housing collections from the world’s most upscale, high-quality fashion vendors. As a merchant Mario’s goal is to find just the right balance between providing customers with what they want, and moving them forward to the next level, even in subtle ways. The brands sold at Mario’s have become more sophisticated with the aging of its clientele, but Mario’s philosophy is to always keep moving forward and to try new things in life and with style – inspiring the Mario’s mantra: Live with Passion. Play with Style.
|September 5, 2012||Filled under AG Jeans, MENS STYLE TOPICS, Q&A, RRL Denim|
Q: Let me first say how impressed I am with your site, helpful yet fun advice…
I’m an almost 58 yo man, and was just told by my lovely wife that the new Levi’s 501s I just so proudly bought, shrunk, and put on weren’t so great for me… (I’m 5-7, 156lbs, pretty fit but with long torso and short legs – the Levi’s were 34-30). Actually the quote was, “they look like workman’s jeans”, which, she felt, weren’t quite appropriate for me. So, what do you suggest? I am pretty small in hips and seat, but DO NOT have anything resembling a 6 pack… Or 4 pack… Or 2 pack….
A: I understand- the 6 pack is in the fridge… you are not alone! Thank you for your kind words.. I love loging into my denim world and look forward to every email! “off the cuff” i’d say the AG Matchbox is going to be your everyday jean unless I can get to to be a little bit more adventurous and I can guarantee you would LOVE RRL by Ralph Lauren but will cost the same as a few pair of your retired Levi’s 501′s.
THE MATCHBOX – 2-YEARS DUSK
MSRP: $215.00 Style Number:1131UDK
AG-ed denim is handcrafted to replicate a true vintage jean offered in a naturally aged appearance. They use a wash process that is quite revolutionary being the first in the industry and developed her in the US. They are able to achieve an authentic look of natural variations of wear and tear made especially to wear more over time by using lasers; keeping the industry moving GREEN or at least not deadly!
- Front Rise 9.75″
- Back Rise 14.5″
- Hip 40.5″
- Thigh 23″
- Knee 16.25″
- Leg Opening 15″
- Inseam 33″
- 11.75 oz Union Dark Stretch Denim
- 98% Cotton 2% Polyurethane
The wife would approve as well; understated, sexy I call them. Comfortable, quality made denim and they fit the way a pair of jeans should. You may need to take them to the tailor and have them hemmed; this is normal- if you swing by Nordstrom they will tailor them for you for a nominal charge. So, now if you are about the story of denim then I have some names to drop like “Jean Shop” and “Prps” just because the story behind the brand is worth reading but to get that “workwear jean for the modern man; “Modern” not “Metro” a very masculine jeans is made by RRl by Ralph Lauren. This is where I have to disclose that “My opinion is of my own” I started working at Ralph Lauren a couple months back so now I have to say that this has no connection to the company. Only a whole heartily connection to the awesome jeans!
Hand finished, selvage denim with good ol’ American Heritage in the styling, fit and essence of the brand. Part No. 11750062 MSRP $240.00 but you’ll take’em to the grave. This denim is woven on vintage shutttle looms and will break in ovver the first 15 times you wear them. But your sizes true you will likely wear a smaller size in most premium denim than a Levi’s 501. If you shoot me a piture; i can tell you what size to buy. I hope this helps; let me know if you come up with any random questions. I know that they cost a bit more than usual but you wear geans more than usually and they should be one of the favorite things you own- you live your life in them!
p.s easy fix: 7 for all Mankind “The Standard” in New York Dark (wash) can be found on sale anywhere online and is an easy go to jean for you!
All my denim LOVE,
The Butt Therapist
|September 5, 2012||Filled under 7 for all Mankind, Hudson Jeans, John Varvados Denim, Q&A, Real Men Real Style, RRL Denim, Scotch & Soda, Wrangler|
Q: Dear Butt Therapist,
Congrats for the great website. I was introduced to it by Real Men Real Style. Wonderful that you put your expertise to help ordinary people look unique. I am 38 and currently my favorite pair of jeans is some Wranglers 33-36 which I wear in the attached pics. I would like a change and was wondering if you can suggest something different. My height is 179 cm and weight around 79 kg.
- Button fly closure
- Classic five pocket styling
- Front rise: 9.75”
- Inseam: 34.5”
- Leg opening: 16.5”
- Fabric Weight: 9.75 oz
- Fabrication: 98% cotton, 2% Elastane
- Made in the USA of imported Italian fabric
BRETT MODERN BOOTCUT IN NEW YORK DARK (available in a LONG INSEAM 36″)
- Italian Denim
- USA Made
- Leg Opening: 19 ¼”
|July 8, 2012||Filled under AG Jeans, Diesel, MENS STYLE TOPICS, Q&A, RRL Denim|
Q: Dear Ms. Golden,
I’m a big fan of your website and can really tell you’re passionate about your #denim!
Anyways, I’m in the market for a new pair of jeans, but with so many fits, washes, styles etc. I feel lost in it all and was wondering if you could help me.
I attached a few pictures of me wearing Levi’s 508 Slim Tapered. I really love the fit and nice clean wash but I want to upgrade to a higher quality denim.
I’ve been looking at something like the Diesel Safado 8aa and Viker 88z but I know there are a hundred other brands out there and don’t even know where to begin. I’m in the $100-$300 price range but I’m open to anything above that if the fit is really good.Can you please help me?
A: Hi Robert,
98% Cotton, 2% Elastane
The perfect slim and straight leg jean. Easy to throw on from a t-shirt to a sport coat. The wash is my favorite medium dark; an understated sexy.
- Front Rise 9.75″
- Back Rise 14.5″
- Hip 40.5″
- Thigh 23″
- Knee 16.25″
- Leg Opening 15″
- Inseam 32.5″
- 11.75 oz Union Stretch Denim
- 98% Cotton, 2% Polyurethane
Ralph Lauren; RRL
p.s Diesel Safado 8aa vs. Viker 88z [Safado 8aa wins HANDS DOWN]
|July 8, 2012||Filled under Diesel, MY WANT LIST|
Diesel this is your best shot- now if these jeans are NOT available at market we are going to have a problem!
A little heavy on the knee wash out but, i’ll take ‘em!
|July 8, 2012||Filled under AG Jeans, EDITORIAL, Luisa Via Roma, Marithe Francois Girbaud, MY WANT LIST, Paige Premium Denim, Q&A|
Marithe = “mah-reet” François = “frah(n)-swah” Girbaud = “zheer-bow
This one is pretty close to my heart… paying homage to the man who peaked my curiosity and sent me into the #denim trenches, exploring every shade of blue and had me taking dismissing algebra equations for the chemistry of indigo.
Q: Dear Denim Girl,
For Christmas, my wife is looking for a pair or two of Marithe Francois Girbaud jeans, Ladies, size 12. I can’t find any on-line in that size. Do you have a suggestion?
A: Merry Christmas Mr. Marks,
Who ever said Girbaud wasn’t a “WHO” didn’t know much about anything!
Well, to my knowledge no one sells them in the USA right now… I wish they did! If you’ve read my bio you know they are my! Here is a pair on e-bay that are nearly vintage in a nice body style. You are also looking for a size 32 aka 12 in French and Italian brands it is a good gauge. I would suggest moving on to the brand CLOSED! MF+F have begun re-branding Mairthe Francois Girbaud as a contemporary apparel collection fit for the runways, but last season I swear it looked like an over done juniors line. Either way they have moved the iconic white tag to their new brand CLOSED; easily available in specialty retailers in the US.
Pretty much it is what Girbaud was 20 years ago when we all lost our heart to them. However, I don’t think the jeans are going to fit the way she wants them to. I would suggest her taking a look at Paige Premium Denim the Skyline or Hidden Hills (higher rise than the skyline). If she is just looking for that killer pair of everyday understated sexy then get her a pair of the AG Jeans Jessie or Ballad!
WELCOME TO MY GIRBAUD
Born: Marithé Bachellerie— Lyon, France, 1942; François Girbaud— Mazamet, France, 1945; Started his career in 1965 unveiling his first denim collection 3 years later through the doors of his own Parisian boutique in 1969. He launched Closed for men in 1993, a brand that has hit the contemporary in 2011 marketplace like an anvil.
Emanating from the streets, Marithé and François Girbaud have created fashion that revels design problems of cylinders, mutation, reversibility; and bringing high-style aspirations to casual materials and fancy effects.
“When interviewed, the designers like to suggest their work is a perfect synthesis of their childhood preoccupations, she with creating doll clothes, he with American pop culture, films, and military outfits. There is truth to this proposition, yet it also is unlikely that these two designers who began as retailers are only pursuing personal desires. The casual clothing they have created is imbued with heritage, even if this legacy is working clothing, brought to the present in technical and even futuristic ways. In the evident conceptualism of their they have expanded the market of casual clothing beyond the young, so their clothes are as appropriate to the market for persons in their 30s and 40s as they are to the primary market for jeans of teens or in their 20s.”
They became bent in their deconstructivist exposing elements of design, parallels Karl Lagerfeld but their medium is more accessible in a hip hop weekend casual carefree flare but have never waivered from being the most innovative, experimental, concept-driven designers.
The Girbaud’s have, in fact, commanded the avant-garde position in casualwear, generally characterized from runways such as Jean-Paul Gaultier or Issey Miyake, thriving on conceptual development and change yet never failing to represent the irrefutable leadership position in the field. Ruth La Ferla, of the Daily News Record, called François Girbaud “three parts fashion technician, one part theoretician. The Girbaud’s are fluent in the language of clothing, playing with the vocabulary, hieroglyphs, and alphabets that continually appear in every collection. François Girbaud told Irene Daria of Women’s Wear Daily, in December 1984, “We design from the streets. We start at the bottom and move up.”
Girbauds were always proponents of fabric innovation with projects such as Blue Eternal, a treated denim that holds its color after multiple trips to the laundry as well as the development of a detergent to revive denim. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, the Girbauds’ designs were emblematic of utilitarian chic, the jeans were the item kids saved for months to get a pair, the reward for the report card and what everyone’s high school lust had hanging on his hips.
The Girbaud jeanswear line has suffered ups and downs in the U.S. market. “With its first licensee, V.F. Corporation (currently owns 7 for all Mankind and running it into the gutter), the Girbaud brand reached an estimated $250 million in annual volume in 1992, but after a too-quick expansion and overexposure, sales fell to less than a tenth of its previous high. In 1997 the men’s license was transferred to a new manufacturer, I.C. Isaacs & Company, which added the women’s license a year later. Isaacs struggled financially in the late 1990s and early 2000s, leading it to shed some of its brands.
“Licensing your dream is not recommended… launch your dream, licence the sunglasses and shoes; keep the heart of it your hands. “In an industry where fashion changes with each season, the Girbauds’ clothes have kept the image of comfort while growing in style and versatility to become ‘concept dressing’.”- California Apparel News; 7/1986
The women’s clothing segment accounts for nearly 68% of premium apparel and has affected more than 88% of the female population. With an epidemic such as this you would hope that consumers actually knew what they were buying. However, Italian and French denim brands have a gargantuan market opportunity in the US in women’s wear. The premium denim market is under penetrated in several aspects just waiting for someone to snag it! “I am waiting….” and they are begging for a denim vision with a little sass and a bit of whoop ass. I read an article that stated that “Isaacs is working to limit distribution in order to prevent the too-fast growth that occurred in the early and mid-1990s.” Now in 2012, they have limited their distribution right out of the USA and have us bidding on 1992 Girbaud jeans on ebay! Oh Hunnie bear Girbaud, if you want to come back to the US I’ve got enough data for you to nail it; come back to me; I miss you desperately!
The Girbauds have always broke away from the mainstream setting always raising the bar on wash techniques and symmetry. A true clothier leader and denim pioneer. “Our work is sometimes a little crazy—sometimes we are on the bull’s-eye of fashion and sometimes we are not.”-François.
Thank you for posting and showing your #denim LOVE! Good luck and PLEASE hit me back with your finding!
p.s If you are in Europe- I can find them for you!
Your Butt Therapist
|July 8, 2012||Filled under Agave Denim, MENS STYLE TOPICS, Q&A|
Dear Denim Guru,
|March 17, 2012||Filled under AG Jeans, Gardeur, Hudson Jeans, Lucky, MENS STYLE TOPICS, PRPS, Q&A, Real Men Real Style|
Established in 2002, Prps is a New York based denim brand founded by former Nike designer, Donwan Harrell. The brand motto is “Bruised, never broken”. Woven on the original 1960′s Levi Strauss looms. Prps jeans are manufactured in Japan. The denim used for the manufacture of the jeans, is organically grown in Africa using the strongest and best cotton from Zimbabwe. The Japanese manufacturer of the jeans uses looms from the 1960s similar to the type that were used to produce denim for Levi’s. Now a small family business that had been around for decades. Harrell says that the manufacturing process was inspired by denim worn by workers before it became popular as an everyday fashion. Some of the distinguishing features of Prps jeans include a folded back pocket, the purple tab on the back pocket, different colored buttons on the fly, and purple line selvage.
Every season they reinvent the most unique washes inspired with a story, a way of life and hand drawings to take you on a journey. By far the denim for a connoisseur, they guy that’s got everything and is interested in a sick jean that has no age limit. Now that I am in NYC I will be kicking it with Chris and Josh 2 people on the Prps crew that inspire the brand sharing the story and processes form retailer to retailer. There will be more to come from this brand in stores and on The Butt Therapist.
Thank you Jonathan for your e-mail and I hope I was able to guide you in the right denim direction.. please keep me updated on your denim purchases!
The Butt Therapist