Category: MY WANT LIST
|July 8, 2012||Filled under Diesel, MY WANT LIST|
Diesel this is your best shot- now if these jeans are NOT available at market we are going to have a problem!
A little heavy on the knee wash out but, i’ll take ‘em!
|July 8, 2012||Filled under AG Jeans, EDITORIAL, Luisa Via Roma, Marithe Francois Girbaud, MY WANT LIST, Paige Premium Denim, Q&A|
Marithe = “mah-reet” François = “frah(n)-swah” Girbaud = “zheer-bow
This one is pretty close to my heart… paying homage to the man who peaked my curiosity and sent me into the #denim trenches, exploring every shade of blue and had me taking dismissing algebra equations for the chemistry of indigo.
Q: Dear Denim Girl,
For Christmas, my wife is looking for a pair or two of Marithe Francois Girbaud jeans, Ladies, size 12. I can’t find any on-line in that size. Do you have a suggestion?
A: Merry Christmas Mr. Marks,
Who ever said Girbaud wasn’t a “WHO” didn’t know much about anything!
Well, to my knowledge no one sells them in the USA right now… I wish they did! If you’ve read my bio you know they are my! Here is a pair on e-bay that are nearly vintage in a nice body style. You are also looking for a size 32 aka 12 in French and Italian brands it is a good gauge. I would suggest moving on to the brand CLOSED! MF+F have begun re-branding Mairthe Francois Girbaud as a contemporary apparel collection fit for the runways, but last season I swear it looked like an over done juniors line. Either way they have moved the iconic white tag to their new brand CLOSED; easily available in specialty retailers in the US.
Pretty much it is what Girbaud was 20 years ago when we all lost our heart to them. However, I don’t think the jeans are going to fit the way she wants them to. I would suggest her taking a look at Paige Premium Denim the Skyline or Hidden Hills (higher rise than the skyline). If she is just looking for that killer pair of everyday understated sexy then get her a pair of the AG Jeans Jessie or Ballad!
WELCOME TO MY GIRBAUD
Born: Marithé Bachellerie— Lyon, France, 1942; François Girbaud— Mazamet, France, 1945; Started his career in 1965 unveiling his first denim collection 3 years later through the doors of his own Parisian boutique in 1969. He launched Closed for men in 1993, a brand that has hit the contemporary in 2011 marketplace like an anvil.
Emanating from the streets, Marithé and François Girbaud have created fashion that revels design problems of cylinders, mutation, reversibility; and bringing high-style aspirations to casual materials and fancy effects.
“When interviewed, the designers like to suggest their work is a perfect synthesis of their childhood preoccupations, she with creating doll clothes, he with American pop culture, films, and military outfits. There is truth to this proposition, yet it also is unlikely that these two designers who began as retailers are only pursuing personal desires. The casual clothing they have created is imbued with heritage, even if this legacy is working clothing, brought to the present in technical and even futuristic ways. In the evident conceptualism of their they have expanded the market of casual clothing beyond the young, so their clothes are as appropriate to the market for persons in their 30s and 40s as they are to the primary market for jeans of teens or in their 20s.”
They became bent in their deconstructivist exposing elements of design, parallels Karl Lagerfeld but their medium is more accessible in a hip hop weekend casual carefree flare but have never waivered from being the most innovative, experimental, concept-driven designers.
The Girbaud’s have, in fact, commanded the avant-garde position in casualwear, generally characterized from runways such as Jean-Paul Gaultier or Issey Miyake, thriving on conceptual development and change yet never failing to represent the irrefutable leadership position in the field. Ruth La Ferla, of the Daily News Record, called François Girbaud “three parts fashion technician, one part theoretician. The Girbaud’s are fluent in the language of clothing, playing with the vocabulary, hieroglyphs, and alphabets that continually appear in every collection. François Girbaud told Irene Daria of Women’s Wear Daily, in December 1984, “We design from the streets. We start at the bottom and move up.”
Girbauds were always proponents of fabric innovation with projects such as Blue Eternal, a treated denim that holds its color after multiple trips to the laundry as well as the development of a detergent to revive denim. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, the Girbauds’ designs were emblematic of utilitarian chic, the jeans were the item kids saved for months to get a pair, the reward for the report card and what everyone’s high school lust had hanging on his hips.
The Girbaud jeanswear line has suffered ups and downs in the U.S. market. “With its first licensee, V.F. Corporation (currently owns 7 for all Mankind and running it into the gutter), the Girbaud brand reached an estimated $250 million in annual volume in 1992, but after a too-quick expansion and overexposure, sales fell to less than a tenth of its previous high. In 1997 the men’s license was transferred to a new manufacturer, I.C. Isaacs & Company, which added the women’s license a year later. Isaacs struggled financially in the late 1990s and early 2000s, leading it to shed some of its brands.
“Licensing your dream is not recommended… launch your dream, licence the sunglasses and shoes; keep the heart of it your hands. “In an industry where fashion changes with each season, the Girbauds’ clothes have kept the image of comfort while growing in style and versatility to become ‘concept dressing’.”- California Apparel News; 7/1986
The women’s clothing segment accounts for nearly 68% of premium apparel and has affected more than 88% of the female population. With an epidemic such as this you would hope that consumers actually knew what they were buying. However, Italian and French denim brands have a gargantuan market opportunity in the US in women’s wear. The premium denim market is under penetrated in several aspects just waiting for someone to snag it! “I am waiting….” and they are begging for a denim vision with a little sass and a bit of whoop ass. I read an article that stated that “Isaacs is working to limit distribution in order to prevent the too-fast growth that occurred in the early and mid-1990s.” Now in 2012, they have limited their distribution right out of the USA and have us bidding on 1992 Girbaud jeans on ebay! Oh Hunnie bear Girbaud, if you want to come back to the US I’ve got enough data for you to nail it; come back to me; I miss you desperately!
The Girbauds have always broke away from the mainstream setting always raising the bar on wash techniques and symmetry. A true clothier leader and denim pioneer. “Our work is sometimes a little crazy—sometimes we are on the bull’s-eye of fashion and sometimes we are not.”-François.
Thank you for posting and showing your #denim LOVE! Good luck and PLEASE hit me back with your finding!
p.s If you are in Europe- I can find them for you!
Your Butt Therapist
|February 17, 2012||Filled under Agave Denim, Agave Nectar, MY WANT LIST|
Agave denim is winning in my book season after season. While other denim companies are cutting corners and increasing their core collections Agave and Agave Nectar is increasing their fashion, denim alternatives and using the absolute best raw materials and creating better look books and ad campaigns then I am seeing from any JBRAND stool, AG Jeans wall or 7 fam spread. People you gotta make sure you are supporting the companies that are keeping you close to their heart. My dollar will always be earned at Agave!
<————-MY SPRING MUST HAVES!
“Jeff and Lauren Shafer took inspirations for Spring 2012 especially color from Sea of Cortez and trips they made to Baja during the sixties and seventies. Spring is packed with color reminiscent of those sunny trips and beautiful vacations. Spring Agave style is “West Coast Luxury” and is not defined by age but by ones inner confidence and ability to enjoy the simple beauty of life.
Husband and wife owners/designers, Jeff and Lauren Shafer, always regard designing an art and fabric as their canvas. They are both extremely passionate about finding the most innovative luxury fabrics every season. They feel this determines every element of their design details and fits. Jeff spends hours hunting and scouring boutique mills for the best. Lauren is truly fanatical about fit and as designer and fully trained pattern maker she typically makes her own first set of samples to see how they look. The Shafers use only the finest Japanese, Italian or USA-made Supima cotton denims and luxury fabrics and work with select boutique mills to design fabrics exclusive to Agave. All Agave jeans and knits are cut, sewn and hand-finished in Los Angeles, California.”- Agave
Jeff and Lauren’s top picks for Fall are:
- Men’s and women’s – colored denim - Color is a hot trend in men’s and women’s denim for Spring 2012 in addition to indigo. There are two Spring color palette for guys true brights or more subdued. For Agave men’s Jeff chose more subdued tones in natural whites, gray, olive, khaki, browns and rusty orange (look book page M28 M38). For women’s Lauren shows vintage brights in colors such as garnet red, beach glass and citrus (Page W4, W16).
- Men’s and women’s -denim natural looking washes – No tolerance for washes that don’t look natural. Whether rinse, slight abrasion or heavily distressed (vintage) all must look like it happened naturally over a long period of time Page men’s M26, M34 women’s Page W20).
- Men’s and women’s – luxury lightweight Italian yarn dyed cotton linens vintaged and washed like denim in variety of colors and fits (see men’s look book page M32 and women’s page W18)
- Men’s only – Selvage is now understood and appreciated by men with a more “true blue” point of view. Slim and classic fit button fly jeans in raw, rinse and vintage . Agave Gold label selvage is limited edition numbered and signed the new fit is Maverick( slim with button fly) Jeff has added more innovative selvage weaves like white selvage and selvage chambray and in lighter weights ( see men’s page Cover/M24, M28, M30).
- Men’s only- Casual woven shirts with tailored detailing take on a new life at Agave with a wide choice of options for Spring: chambrays, Oxford indigos calvary twills and linens all with additional tailored details . Jeff’s favorite is page M40 of look book “Craftsman” a selvage chambray.
- Women’s only- Truly the perfect denim skirt called the “Dolce”. An in-house favorite is the paneled pencil skirt with high waist A truly flattering style that elongates the body. This is available in indigo blue and colors for Spring see page W8)
- Women’s only- Luxury & drape for Spring. Fabrics which flatter with drape are key for Spring. The “ Nancy” shirt is a hit with everyone who sees, feels or tries it on (pageW1 and W3). Also the “Patrona” trouser in “Cabo Stretch”(page W6) Lyocell/Cotton/elastane) has been nicknamed the ultimate luxury pant perfect for vacations and warm Summer days ahead
- Men’s and Women’s Luxury Supima cotton knits & sweaters in rich Spring color palette
PREVIEW the full collection at www.agavedenim.com
JOIN THE agavedenim Facebook page!
Jeff, Lauren, Zoe, and me… the Butt Therapist!
|October 20, 2011||Filled under DENIM TECHNOLOGY, EDITORIAL, MY WANT LIST, Nadel & Pen|
The True Denim de Luxe
–135 hours, 16,200 hand stitched, completely customized and personalized exclusive luxury #denim–
As an artist and Denim Head…I am geeking out on Nadel & Pen hand sewn jeans that are custom made in France. I had the opportunity to catch up with Tilmann Wröbel, couture fashion designer, blueblood, and total nice guy to talk shop with little ‘ol me across an ocean of blue. This denim collection is none other than the best pair of jeans you will ever have. The ultimate gift to a denim connoisseur and the final piece to any notable denim collection. Go through the process and you will receive a completely custom pair of jeans made with the finest materials with an unrivaled amount of personalization and detail. One hundred percent hand sewn…16,200 stitches, 135 hours of hand work and 3 months of love bleeds into the indigo with the utmost amount of passion for the art of denim making. <<a story worth telling>>
“Singularity is the new vision of luxury”
“Nadel & Pen is neither a a maison de couture, nor a denim brand. It’s a know how, a style, a single object: A custom hand sewn pair of jeans which takes back for the first time, without any machine assistnce; the codes of the most industrialized garment in the world.”-NP
“Nadel & Pen stands for the privilege of offering yourself an exceptional jean. Made in france, custom tailored, it’s sewn by hand in 135 hours using 16,200 stitches” done by HAND; never any type of machine. It is designed with the most notable raw Japanese or Italian fabrications and rarest of trimmings with finishes reminiscent of haute couture Nadel & Pen implies a blend of dominating values Step one [arrive in Paris and introduce yourself to a denim studio in the heart of the city of love] Step two [Select your luxury materials to create your custom jeans] Step three [Tilmann designs and sketches your jeans to your preferences by the hand that Dior trusted] Step four [impatiently wait three months while your jeans are going though the hand making garment process] Step five [receive your exclusive one of a kind custom jeans in a showcase all its own with serial number and certificate of authenticity.]
When you arrive in Paris, you will have a selection of the finest selvage denim available in the world to choose from. The shank button engraved with your initials or coat of arms if you prefer. Your initials able to be embroidered on the coin or rear pocket… no “brand squiggle on the butt” this is your piece of art made by the artist. Much like commissioning a painting, your canvas is selected raw and the artist creates a piece that is unique to your own tastes. The pocket sacks and lining is made from couture quality silk dupion while the buttons on the fly are made from either horn or mother of pearl. “Horsehair and glaced cotton make up the multi-layered hand-stiched inner lining making it tear proof.” There is nothing common or ordinary about this piece of denim… Haute couture still exists… not found on the runways ie:”ready to wear (RTW)” you may be so familiar with in the pages of Vogue. There are still artisans that create art with a few tools and their hands much like a painter using a brush and a few drops of colored paste to create a perception of reality. When you are able to take the best materials and mold them into an object that has a style and attitude all its own you have created life. Well, I hope you heard it here first about this new denim loving project that may just be the most coveted pair of jeans in the world.
There are still plenty of secrets so keep your eye on Tilmann Wröbel and check out
for a personal introduction to his creative spaces
Love, The Butt Therapist 10.20.2011
|July 14, 2011||Filled under MY WANT LIST||
Butt Therapist: I want these! Executed beautifully…
|June 30, 2011||Filled under Diesel, MY WANT LIST||
Thank you @DieselUSA From my mind into a sale…on my wish list for summer!
Diesel:Clushy $250.00 on sale for $175.00
The Clushy’s zip rear pockets that will make fingers itch. Staying at the rear, you’ll like the cinch construction. The rear is constructed to be slightly higher than the front, so it provides plenty of cover, especially when you’re sitting. Arrow stitching on the hip delivers a slim effect, plus there’s a special coin pocket. And need we mention the ultra slim fit leg?
Denim cotton, Stretch, Colored wash, Low waisted, Button, zip fly closure, Five pockets, Slashed detailing, Logo details, Small studs- Composition 98% Cotton, 2% Elastane