Category: Abercrombie & Fitch
Shame on me…
| February 9, 2012 | Filled under 7 for all Mankind, Abercrombie & Fitch, Agave Denim, Agave Nectar, DENIM TECHNOLOGY, Diesel, EDITORIAL, Marc Allison, Paige Premium Denim, Replay, Supima Cotton, VIDEOS |
““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““““By: Casey Golden aKa The Butt Therapist
Shuffling to and from work you see a lot of #denim butts in a NYC subway. Not only am I searching out my train route but cataloguing every pocket detail and brand stamp on passing derriere’s. There was a girl holding hands with her bf walking up the stairs in front of me with great pocket placement and a killer wash. The word Maj was lightly under dyed on the right rear pocket. It went in to my notes of things to research… 3 days later I got a twitter message from Marc Allison Jeans. When I pulled up the website there was the Maj logo. My curiosity got the best of me… as usual; I had to get them on!
Shame on me… for not searching out Maj Denim before they found me; Thank you twitter! I’ve got radar finding people making jeans in their living room to passionate production on tiny tropical islands. A textile mill in LA turned to denim brand… how could I miss it? I wish working ridiculous hours a week was a good enough excuse! Passionate denim heads have a way of finding each other if not to just talk shop with someone who gets it.
Marc Allison Jeans introduced a revolution in premium denim. The collection is made of a completely new fabric that no other brand offers – “a four-way X-FIT stretch denim infused with Supima cotton that makes for a stunningly flattering fit, extraordinary movement and comfort with great recovery. Based in Los Angeles, Marc Allison Jeans was co-founded by textile veteran and premium denim expert, Marc Flashberg and his wife Allison. The duo set out to design classic and sophisticated jeans with an emphasis on fit and comfort that naturally complements every woman’s individuality and sense of style. A 30-year veteran in the textile business, Flashberg developed a driving passion for premium denim at the onset of the denim explosion. After spending years introducing innovative products to top premium denim labels, it became clear to Flashberg that there was a void in the market. Until now, the belief was that fit and comfort was achieved primarily through the pattern. Flashberg realized that the pattern alone cannot offer fit and comfort. Jeans need to be able to move with the body, retain their shape and look good. He concluded that this level of fit and comfort can only truly be achieved through the fabric, which then complements the pattern. Pulling from his early experience in knits, five years ago Flashberg came up with the revolutionary idea of creating a four-way stretch denim to provide the ultimate in fit and comfort for denim aficionados.
Through further exploration of the concept, the mill Marc represented learned that Invista, a global integrated producer of polymers and fibers, had already begun research on the creation of a yarn that would allow denim to stretch in the length as well as the width. Working together with Invista, the XFIT was born and the first generation of fabric that offers fit, comfort and recovery was introduced to the market. Every pair of Marc Allison Jeans features this T400 technology — authentic ring spun yarns containing unique fiber memory that sculpts the body and maintains its shape day after day, wash after wash. Marc Allison jeans have been sold at Theory, Fred Segal Girl, Lisa Kline and other specialty boutiques in the United States, Canada, Dubai, Lebanon, Israel and England.” BUY NOW
With the rising cost of cotton many brands have been blending synthetic fibers like polyurethane, spandex and elastane to compensate for cost and improve their fit retention in the past 3 years. Fit aside, it doesn’t take a genius or a skilled eye to create a nice dark jean. Wether it’s a mercer wash or saturated in indigo the skill comes in the ability to wash the garment beautifully. This is what has made Diesel stand out in the market for decades and one of the reasons they use 100%, 99% and 98% cotton blends. It gives them the ability to manipulate the indigo shades and process wash treatments when using a higher natural fiber percentage. In contrast, most Paige Jeans are currently made with 40% polyethylene and focused on pretty basic washes. I dare Mrs. Geller to make the Hidden Hills in a Medium light wash again. xox
Dying synthetic fibers naturally or chemically treating them to look naturally faded is not the easiest task. So, when Marc asked me which pair of their Fall 2012 collection jeans I was most interested in seeing I chose the Selly in the powder wash. Impress me with a stretch fit in a unique shade and killer wash treatment. Impress is just what they did. Having a light washed stretch jeans with a unique wash treatment is not easily accomplished and not many brands are trying these days. When brands are focused on marketing budgets, material costs, production locations vs brand dilution you are seeing a lot of skinny dark jeans trending... p.s Miss Fashionista, this is the most cost-effective to produce. It says a little bit about your brands priorities… get a techy addicted to denim and he’s gonna find a way to re-create the denim not just the pattern. Marc has some major props in my book as he and his wifes initials will be stamped on my ass; because Marc Allison Jeans are sexy… easy as that.
Personally, I am a tough fit. I grew up as a gymnast and have the lower body that still reflects a solid frame. I am a 150 lbs size 4 (27) with a VERY short rise. A high rise jean on me grazes the bottom of my bra; comedy. Since I have been a size 2-14 all in a matter of weeks I have had the opportunity to know first hand how my body changes from a size 6 to a size 10. Living in denim everyday it required weekly purchases as I dropped a large amount of break-up weight. That’s a whole other story. This is how I was able to use my body as a reference to fit my clients. I’ve been a size 12..I get it and I’ve been a size 2 I understand! That combined with personally fitting over 5,000 butts effortlessly, men or women continue to come to me for my denim picks- I can save a lot of time and sometimes a few tears.
My personal best fitting jean as a size 27 is Abercrombie & Fitch and Hudson’s Couture Collection (hard to find but retails around $305.00). However, being a denim connoisseur A&F dosen’t offer the quality and details I prefer but damn they fit me like a pair of jeans should. That is until my left leg falls off when I get out of my car. Being addicted to denim I have favorites that I will wear day in and day out purely because my jeans are works of art not because they fit the great or give me the best toosh… I am over what my toosh looks like in a pair of jeans- pocket placement will not detour me if the jeans are badass! We are Replay are coveted in my closet; one day they will be framed. The second I buttoned the Marc Allison Jeans I knew they had done it; they have created the RIGHT fit for me. Finally, I get a pair of jeans that fit the way I want them to while not having to sacrificing on quality and production value structures. I spend all my energy helping other people find their perfect fit and here I was still looking for the perfect mix of quality, passion, and fit for my go to jeans. I know I will not get everything I want for me and you in one collection… but I am getting closer to creating the GOLD BAR my picks for all the attributes that can make a pair of jeans coveted.
Marc Allison Jeans run about a size big. Don’t lie to yourself BUY THE RIGHT SIZE! If you are a STRONG 28 in 7 for all Mankind by a 27. If you are a size 30 go ahead and buy a size 30 in the regular rise and a 29 in the mid-rise; my adjustment should correlate properly. The Selly is a lower rise, with a curved-waist band that slopes in the front just enough to graze my hip bones and keep my lacy whites under cover when I sit. They look like REAL jeans… and feel like jeans not jeggings! They move with me while keeping my pockets where they are supposed to be- 3/4 of an inch below the bottom of my fanny. With all this stretch in the market place your pockets are dancing behind you moving all over the place while you walk… have a friend video tape it… it’s interesting! I have thighs. Generally they pull jeggings and high stretch jeans down off my toosh and I am continually pulling them back up-giving my pockets placement no permanent home on my toosh. Maj jeans stay in place while you walk, do not provide Shar pei wrinkled legs or smiley face butt cheeks. They are a winner in my book…
Marc Allison Jeans is made with a unique Supima Cotton (Made in the USA) overlay to create a soft hand. Only a few denim brands use it in their fabric blends because it is more expensive to use. Agave Jeans is another company that supports Supima Cotton “it’s the best!” Your knowledge as a consumer is the key to your closet! Know what you buy, who you are buying it from and make sure you LOVE every piece. You have been shopping for at least a decade for yourself… if you can not grab 12 items in your closet that you LOVE “you’re FIRED! It is in your best interest to outsource the service. Find a pro, you will find yourself with a better wardrobe, cooler pieces, more style and a lot of saved cash by buying only a few AMAZING pieces a year. You choose who makes it and who doesn’t in this industry… choose passionately!
All my denim love,
The Butt Therapist
The Butt Therapist – off the cuff!
| July 20, 2011 | Filled under 7 for all Mankind, Abercrombie & Fitch, AG Jeans, Agave Nectar, Blue Bell- Wrangler, D&G Jeans, Diesel, Earnest Sewn, Hudson Jeans, JBrand, Meltin' Pot Denim, My UPDATES, NEXTBLUE-Wrangler, Notify, Paige Premium Denim, Replay, Rock & Republic, Victoria Beckham, VIDEOS, William Rast |
|
So…here is The Butt Therapist – off the cuff! The Wrangler video I made was the first time I stepped in front of a camera and actually opened my mouth! I have decided that you will bear witness to my embarrassment as this “video thing” needs to become a part of my reality and executed effortlessly. Be prepared to laugh with me as I run my mouth, use too many hand gestures and figure out where this “valley girl” accent is coming from. You’ll get to know me a little bit more personally if adjusting your toosh wasn’t personal enough. Be nice- Karma SUCKS… I welcome the opportunity to laugh at my expense. The things I do for the LOVE of DENIM! Thank you Damien from San Damian Line for saving me and taking a few head-shots!
Welcome to my Denim Garden… my happenstance
| July 15, 2011 | Filled under 7 for all Mankind, Abercrombie & Fitch, Diesel, Earnest Sewn, Hudson Jeans, Paige Premium Denim, PHOTO GALLERY, Replay |
|
Welcome
to my Denim Garden
the preping of a mini photshoot
has turned into a work of art.
William Wrast
Abrercrombie & Fitch hangin’in the breez
Rock & Republic Wrangler “Premium Patch”
Diesel & 7 for all Mankind
The Butt Therapist
Welcome to my denim Garden… my happenstance.
Cotton Crunch
| May 18, 2011 | Filled under 4whatitsworth, Abercrombie & Fitch, EDITORIAL, GAP Jeans, Levi Strauss, RETAILERS, Rewash Jeans, Silver Jeans, Tyte Jeans, Urban Outfitters |
|
When jeggins first made their debut on retail floors my first thought was “how much is cotton these days?” It is not that I thought they were horrible, i like jeggings but when you work with women every day and you have a size 2 complaining about how skinny they look or their little cupcake peeking over their waistband I was wondering how in the world am I going to get women in these tight little jeans?
My job got a bit more intense confidence building went on overdrive. Now 3 years later there is less and less cotton in denim and I am missing my 100% cotton, destroyed and intricate washed denim that I cherish so much. Will consumers still be able to replace those favorite pair of jeans that are becoming more and more coveted these days?
There was a WWD article by Kristi Ellis and Aurthur Friedman that caught my attention on the rising cost of cotton and how the economy is changing the denim world and fashion for that matter.
“We face an unpredictable cotton market and unpredictable consumer response to rising prices,” John Anderson, CEO Levi Strauss.
“The higher cost of cotton could negativly impact margins and working capital as we work through 2011″ Blake jorgensen, CFO Levi Strauss.
Alden Halpern, CEO of 4Whatitsworlth, a jounior denim company with jeans retailing from $24.00 to $34.00. (I know cheap right…my jeans average $189.00) anticipated the spike in cotton prices a year ago and stockpiled 4 million yards of fabric at lower prices with his factories inChina. Halpen said the strategy paid off and allowed the company to maintain prices, but he will still have to face higher fabric costs in the last three months of the year because his stockpiled denim SOLD OUT! Who is 4 whatitsworth?…Tyte Jeans & Rewash Jeans are few of the lines they make. So, how did 4Whatitsworth end up with a 40% increase? They cut their space in LA from 120,000 sq ft to 16,00, cut their workforce by 20%, moved 11 people to aNEW office in China and sold their stockpiled denim while restructuring their company.
More denim companies are relying on new blends and adding more polyester, spandex, rayon, spandex, lyocell, and looking for more cotton alternatives.
Split denim says that fabric accounts for 30% of the cost of a garment and Makers of True originals has seen 10%-15% increases in the “first cost” of a finished garment. Many companies like Split are trying to keep their retail amount consistent and absorb the increases themselves. however, consumers should be aware that companies can only hold off the increases so long and they must be prepared for apparel prices across the board to increase as the cost of goods sold is dramatically increasing.
So, after the cost of cotton is increased so is the labor… where are your jeans made now? “Bangladesh, Pakistan, Cambodia and Vietnam are gaining denim business…All major brands are moving to Bangladesh, in particular; if you can’t get cotton cheap, you try to get labor and washing cheaper and sometimes with out a duty on it” Michael Silver, Presidentof Silver Jeans Co.
Denimatrix, a division of the Plains Cooperative association produces jeans for Abercrombie & Fitch, Gap, Guess and Urban Outfitters. Carlos Arias, President, says “in the past companies could go to three or four places to find core fabrics but today, it is a “produce-to-order” business, which means longer lead times.”
So, the industry is changing and before you- the consumer complain about where your jeans are made or the extra $5.00 bucks you are shelling out for that piece of indigo; understand that $5.00 is a deal and support the companies you truly want to support rather than buying just to buy and spending 15 minutes complaining about them being made in China. They are made in China because the consumer won’t gladly pay a premium to be made in the USA! The power lies with in the consumer to choose “what to buy” and “how much” you are willing to use your dollar to say “I care”?
Does Gap have what it takes?
| August 16, 2010 | Filled under 55DSL, 7 for all Mankind, Abercrombie & Fitch, Aeropostal, American Eagle, Barney's New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Citizen's, GAP Jeans, GILT, Harrods, Hudson Jeans, JCrew, Lucky, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Paige Premium Denim, Rich & Skinny,, Rock & Republic, Ruelala, Saks 5th Avenue, True Religion, William Rast |
|
Good morning denim lovers, it is nearly 3am and I have written you a novel. David Moin wrote an article in this weeks WWD; about “Gap Gearing Up Denim” that caught my attention. Gap…denim… really; we are going to do this AGAIN? I am not convinced that Gap Inc. knows how to communicate their brand, differentiate their store experience or have a “real” relationship with their customer… who are they? J crew knows who they are and who their client is…Does gap have the right crew to pull off the gap brand being cool and return to be a closet staple like it was in the 90′s?
Personally, I am going direct here- let’s ask the questions; I have asked several kids, friends and even my own clients {what do you think about GAP} Some comments I may be playing devils advocate, than again, some may be right inline with my personal belief that fact is there are questions that need to be answered and considered. Enjoy….
What kind of shopping destination is Gap and would “you” ever go back?
The sales we saw last year in the 2009 during the retail meltdown gave everyone a chance to have designer goods for garage sale prices. Do you really want to give back the labels you love or have you begun a small, planned collection of love-able items in your closet…the yearly fashion bucket list I call it… I’ve got one! You just may haven’t actually wrote yours down. Go get a notepad…
Are people being “YOU” willing to pay full retail for Gap jeans @$59.50-$70.00 rather than hitting the killer sales at your favorite specialty store or much less skip the opportunity at Nordstrom Rack to score a pair of $200.00 designer jeans for sixty-five bucks? Who is the Gap customer; I don’t believe they know who their customer is nevertheless who to market to!
Another favorite Quote: “Prior Proper Planning Prevents Poor Performance” unknown
I am gonna break it down in “coffee talk”…quick!
Elementary School: Yes! Grade school kids are wearing designer jeans…It is common for kids to be rewarded with “socially coveted cloth” designer jeans for finishing their monthly book reading list. If you were to walk into an elementary school you would see, P.S by Areopostal ($29.50), abercrombie Kids ($32.00), and probably some Levi’s, a few randoms but that’s parents… not the kids! If you asked the kid, they would tell you what they like {they already know}. They might just be waiting for their older sister’s hand me downs. FYI:Older sister is cool- she’s wearing the cool jeans that she earns for doing chores and having good grades. If you ask the parents-it’s about money- but Gap jeans aren’t going to be cheap they are comparable. Every company should want to introduce their product and brand to a potential customer as soon as possible in order to develop brand loyalty and allow the brand to become part of the consumer’s identity. “lifestyle branding is beautiful” you’ve seen it at work; its like shaking Tinkerbell’s fairy dust on each person that walks in your store- a little magic”. How early….look at Baby designer jeans- Joe’s, Seven 4 all Mankind, True Religion, Levi’s Vintage, Diesel, little Marc Jacobs… heck- we’ve got DENIM Huggies!
Middle School:
6th graders- the babies on campus again; luckily they are starting a new team sport to help adjust and make some new friends. They are beginning to make decisions based on their ideal and start developing a personal identity and identify with brands, groups, and are striving for social acceptance. They most likely just got their first magazine subscription. Gap…where are you spending your advertising dollars? I can’t see Gap jeans being hotter than Abercrombie & Fitch in middle school; because the high school kids are wearing them and working in the stores-they’re “cool” kids. It doesn’t take rocket science to know middle schooler’s look up to older siblings, high school kids, and celebrities. Just like the incoming freshman want the designer jeans that are on the 11 and 12th graders… POCKET ENVY! The lifestyle branding VALUE kids get to feel accepted and confident is priceless. Have you been back there lately…it’s not pretty! No matter how much you develop a child skills, talents and value system, acceptance or lack there of at such a young age makes a difference in their confidence and motivation with their endeavor.
Alright, your 6,7,8 grader DOES NOT GO SHOPPING WITH THEIR PARENTS! The mall is like a big FREE babysitter! They even have security; “let’s call it multi-tasking for the mums and the “social time” for the kids. This is when shopping becomes a “hobby” or a way to “pass” the time. Going to the mall is about all they can do when they are not playing sports or doing homework. Kids are at the mall…shopping with their friends, hanging out and spending their parents money WITHOUT THEM. Is it a cool experience to go in to Gap? ya.. no. Turn the music up- incorporate a video arcade… dude- something to get these kids excited about being a part of your BRAND! Kids are amazing… I truly want like…a million! They are blank canvases just waiting for a killer sales associate to walk up and play dress up, show them how great they look in such in such brand of clothing and teach them a little bit of style. But instead… no one pays attention to the kids in the store… do they? Well, I do! I have had an entire 6th grade cheerleading squad come down to my store and do a little cheer ’cause they all shop with me. I am the ultimate big sister and I will adopt anyone that needs one. I think it is the coolest thing ever to have someone look up to you and a beautiful responsibility to show them how special they are; inspire them to want to do great things! p.s. I am not talking about dressing up little girls in mini denim skirts and ruffles. I am talking about taking an eleven year old that is shy or prissy and making her confident enough to rock the boys camo cargo shorts, a pink tank top, hoodie, ripped up denim jacket and flip flops – when all the other girls are wearing the denim mini skirts, make-up and tight tee-shirts “little kid sexy”. Which little girl is going to be stronger, self-confident, and find her own personal style and identity first?
Kids are also wearing at this point: Hollister, A&F, 55DSL, Lucky, and American Eagle, and breaking in to designer jeans like Seven 4 all mankind. Rock & Republic killed kids with POCKET ENVY; everyone learned about designer denim real quick!
Oh.. the dreaded HIGH SCHOOL: If you are sending your child out to war their freshman year without the damn pocket just get them a pair so they don’t have to deal with it! “go to the mattresses” Kids can be VERY cruel! So, give-in for them, just one pair that’s all it takes to be “accepted” into the club or should I say avoid being “rejected” from the clicks. At least they have 4 years to decide if they want to be friends with any of the other kids rather than it not being an option. First impressions go both ways! I would LOVE a brand to emphasize individuality and “secret” of the brand. Levi has remained true to the All-American lifestyle…so, far as Levi’s are neither coveted nor shunned with the youth age group.
We are in high school now and are parents may or may not wear designer denim but… I bet they do, because it took over the WORLD! If mom does, then daughter is stealing them or begging for more! Dad is going to buy them for his son-cake!
So, what is paired with every hoodie and henley in the halls… jeans! But, again are they gap jeans? Would they become gap jeans? Levis are just American- blank-accepted- and less expensive than the new gap jeans.
COLLEGE: If you didn’t get the magical cloth in high school well- YOU ARE GETTING SENT OFF TO COLLEGE WITH THEM! Why? because this kid is fed up with NOT having them in high school- sick of it! Are incoming freshman rushing in Gap jeans? When you have 7 days to show who you are and that you belong to a particular “social” group? NO! Hudson, Citizen’s, Rich n’ Skinny, Rock & Republic.. oh yea! Need a refresher from your SAT’s… Attorney is to suit as College student is to jeans; it’s a uniform people. The only difference is that these uniforms also serve as status symbols… I am not even going to start on Handbags!
COLLEGE: This is where your consumer learns about personal services available at Barney’s, Neiman Marcus, Forum Stores, SAKS 5th Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Harrods, “some” Nordstrom stores and the INTERNET groups like GILT and Ruelala. How’s your loyalty right now… gap- do you have any interactive college apps?
Now, all these kids are good kids, honor roll, driven, are/have great friends, confident, ambitious (they are going to change the world you know), and family oriented. But, our youth is our time to experiment, express, and decide who we are and mold who we are going to be- Seize the day! Fashion is the way we decide how we are going to start our future! You’ve heard it once, you’ve heard it twice…”everyone is in such a hurry to grow up”… are you still wearing children’s clothing?
So, you’re average college student buys: A&F, Hollister, AE, Levis, Seven 4 all mankind, William Rast, Urban Outfitters, Rock n’ Republic, XXI, Hudson…and hits up Nordstrom Rack FIRST! Gap— who is going to gap… there is no music, no service, no prints, “overpriced” basics and …no memorable lifestyle shopping experience? Personally, I am busy- and I don’t have time to go shopping if it is not going to be an EVENT or BLISS!
Post college: you’re BROKE! Thank god you stocked up on all your denim when you were in college… you’re starving now so, they all fit again! However, that first tax return they get for actually working an entire year is sooo… going to buy the newest hottest jeans in February! Although, graduation is only 5 months away from Christmas!
Thus far…baby gap is pretty strong, Toddler gap sizes definitely do-able, teen and young adult- NEEDS SOME WORK!
Addicted to denim... that’s us these days, always on to the next. The best, perfect pocket placement in a world consumed by pocket envy… or so, far beyond that it is just all about the butt! There’s the question [ding, ding, ding, ding, ding] Does gap have a better denim butt then Paige Premium Denim?
{to be continued}…
