Ku’ing over AG Jeans

Ku’ing over AG Jeans

By: Casey Golden (The Butt Therapist)

@AGJeans #denim #fashion

Mr. Ku is self-taught denim laundering genius and the vision that has evolved AG Jeans into one of the most successful denim companies in 2011. The brand was founded in 2000 by both Adriano Goldschmied and Mr. Yul Ku, of Koos Manufacturing of South Gate, California. In 2004 Adriano left his namesake to start Citizen’s of Humanity. “Under the direction of Ku, the AG team has maintained its commitment to “made in the U.S.A” label, and is dedicated to the continued development of the brand with the upmost attention to detail and quality. The only vertical denim production facility in the US: Vertical means that from design to shipping; AG handles every step of an AG jean production in one location, ensuring superior attention to detail, unparalleled consistency, and the highest quality product available”. –AG Jeans.   Right from downtown Los Angeles in their 450,000K square foot Denim Haven.

It takes 11 pattern pieces to make a classic 5- pocket. Postscript… the rear pockets are size graded so they are in the correct proportion to your body size vs. toosh dimensions. It takes approx 16 hours just for a single pair of jeans to go through (aging) the dry process; patented by Ku in19 countries. This now, family business recycles and reuses every left over scrap of denim to non-slip stair protectors to their uber-cool SWAG. There are 1800 employees constructing and creating your jeans.  It takes 11 pattern pieces to make a classic 5- pocket. Each pair are baked for 40 minutes at 120 degrees, hand sanded and abraded on inflatable forms that are shaped and able to be manipulate in the sitting position by the sander; they are then baked again. Koos Manufacturing only has 100 of these machines; they are each able to process 16 pairs of jeans at a time. Ku is passionate about his denim, he doesn’t like it touched, folded, or squished. When the denim arrives on the mass roll he rolls it out on a table that could be compared to a football field in length and there he lets the denim “sleep” for 24 hours. AG Jeans uses a Gerber spreading machine to ensure that the denim is never pulled and the integrity of the weave is maintained. Seventy-eight sets of hands touch every jean that leaves their haven because every aspect is done with so much love.


Mr. Ku started at Sears purchasing 12 Maytag Washing machines and begun experimenting with denim washing and techniques. Today, the Ag-ed Vintage collection has secured their  spot next to the top premium denim bands” by using  a revolutionary laundry process technique, producing jeans that truly mimic” jeans that you have been wearing for years. To be one of the best you most use the best. Most denim is of custom Japanese, domestic (knitwear), or Italian (twills) origin. All hardware is made of sterling silver imported directly from Italy. It costs just a bit more but the added quality of the rivets accounts for the additional cost over years of wear. Sam, Ku’s son is currently the Creative Director, spending the last 8 years digging through denim from the bottom

Ozone Technology is used for every pair! “In addition to reusing water, recycling pumice stones & denim scraps- their Ozone process eliminates some of the wash process; reducing total chemical and water usage by 25%. Koos manufacturing is looking to stay one step ahead and move to a “greener” industry. The dry process provides a cleaner denim finish and no water is used during its processing cycle. “Normally, jeans are rinsed with large amounts of water to get rid of the excess indigo and chemicals are applied to fade and clean up pocket linings. When a jean is ‘ionized’ however, those processes are drastically reduced, if not eliminated. The ozone acts as a bleach to disinfect the garment, kill bacteria and clean up the indigo”. C3 is 3,000 times stronger than bleach and can save 10 million gallons of water a year by using a dry vs. wet washing process. Learn more at http://www.agjeans.com/ozone

AG Rep Dwight wore a pair of raw AG’s for two years straight until they were perfectly faded and worn in all the right places. This pair of jeans was the inspiration for the “Picasso” wash that Mr. Ku named a replicated process using one of his 22 new laser machines. These new laser techniques are able to copy the hand sanding and sandblasting finishing treatments that we have come to adore; decreasing the cost, time and environmental impact. This will allow a core collection to retail around the $150.00 range instead of the $225.00 for responsible premium denim.

    • FUN FACT: When you see a celebrity in a pair of AG Jeans- their name has been embroidered by AG in their waist band as a thank you.
    • FUN FACT: Your side seams are Flat Busted by being ironed twice before and after the washing process.

Last fall I got 3 pair of the MOST amazing chords I have ever put on my toosh and I am addicted to the stilt. In fact, I am wearing the stilt in the Picasso wash as I type this article at the Denver, airport while a man just drowned me in AX…ewww! I would fight for my ex-boyfriend crop and the Angel replaced 5 classic boot cuts that were lying around my closet. This denim collection is the perfect assortment with an executed fit. Frankly; I am in love with AG Jeans and by learning more about Mr. Ku and how his passion has shaped his life and redefined the opportunities and responsibilities in the denim industry…I SUPPORT!