Monthly Archives: July 2012

…upgrading denim…86% completed

Q: Dear Ms. Golden,

I’m a big fan of your website and can really tell you’re passionate about your #denim!

Anyways, I’m in the market for a new pair of jeans, but with so many fits, washes, styles etc. I feel lost in it all and was wondering if you could help me.
I attached a few pictures of me wearing Levi’s 508 Slim Tapered. I really love the fit and nice clean wash but I want to upgrade to a higher quality denim.
I’ve been looking at something like the Diesel Safado 8aa and Viker 88z but I know there are a hundred other brands out there and don’t even know where to begin. I’m in the $100-$300 price range but I’m open to anything above that if the fit is really good.Can you please help me?



A: Hi Robert,

Thank you so much for visiting and taking the time to send in some pictures… it is really helpful. Taking photos of yourself.. not so easy so I give you props for your outstanding pictures! Your jeans look good, nice fit for you but I can imagine sitting is not your most enjoyable adventure during the day. I am sure I am not pointing something out that you didn’t already know but, you have a high toosh… your need a higher rear rise than front. This way you’ll never have to think about sitting and will never wear grampa jeans. Levi’s will always be a classic choice and a better one than 50% of the denim that is out there. You’re right about their being so many choices that finding a place to start can be overwhelming. Thankfully, it also means that I have a job I love!
So about your denim- everyone should own a pair of Diesel jeans. it’s a given- and frankly, I find it mandatory! Unfortunately for the ladies our jeans have really SUCKED for the past 6 years; FIX this boys! Thankfully we get to see the beautiful washes on our men.  I’d suggest it in a light wash Viker for your knock around jeans you keep on the floor.
Viker 008w7
Cotton denim with stretch and worn effect.
17″ leg opening
10″ front rise
14″ back rise
98% Cotton, 2% Elastane
So, now around the corner I am also suggesting a pair of jeans you can dress-up and down all around town.

Matchbox Jean

Distric 32

$178.00 MFGSKU:1131UNI

The perfect slim and straight leg jean. Easy to throw on from a t-shirt to a sport coat. The wash is my favorite medium dark; an understated sexy.

  • Front Rise 9.75″
  • Back Rise 14.5″
  • Hip 40.5″
  • Thigh 23″
  • Knee 16.25″
  • Leg Opening 15″
  • Inseam 32.5″
  • 11.75 oz Union Stretch Denim
  • 98% Cotton, 2% Polyurethane
A recommendation is never complete with out the splurge: Let me introduce you to RRL jeans by Ralph Lauren. All American grit in an Italian fit.I would suggest the RRL: Slim-fit Once washed Denim, they are rich indigo and bake died the perfect addition to any guys closet.

Ralph Lauren;  RRL

Style #11750060

Hand finished Selvage Denim
All three of these jeans will create your foundation of your denim collection. No True Religion, MEK (RIP), Rock n’ Republic (RIP) are you seeing the trend… your jeans should complement your attitude, create the base of your style and fit perfectly all the time. These babies are gonna be there through several years of  Facebook status updates.
I hope this helps, maybe showed you something you didn’t expect. If you really are looking for skinny jeans rather than slim straight let me know; I can throw you off the cliff also if you really need that novelty wearing once a month kinda pair too.
Have an EPIC summer!

p.s  Diesel Safado 8aa vs. Viker 88z [Safado 8aa wins HANDS DOWN]

Passionately yours,
The Butt Therapist

Grow me some Jeans

Diesel this is your best shot- now if these jeans are NOT available at market we are going to have a problem!

A little heavy on the knee wash out but, i’ll take ’em!



Marithe = “mah-reet” François = “frah(n)-swah” Girbaud = “zheer-bow

This one is pretty close to my heart… paying homage to the man who peaked my curiosity and sent me into the #denim trenches, exploring every shade of blue and had me taking dismissing algebra equations for the chemistry of indigo.

Q: Dear Denim Girl,

For Christmas, my wife is looking for a pair or two of Marithe Francois Girbaud jeans, Ladies, size 12.  I can’t find any on-line in that size. Do you have a suggestion?

Thank you,

-Mr. Marks

A:  Merry Christmas Mr. Marks,

Who ever said Girbaud wasn’t a “WHO” didn’t know much about anything!

Well, to my knowledge no one sells them in the USA right now… I wish they did! If you’ve read my bio you know they are my! Here is a pair on e-bay that are nearly vintage in a nice body style. You are also looking for a size 32 aka 12 in French and Italian brands it is a good gauge.  I would suggest moving on to the brand  CLOSED! MF+F have begun re-branding Mairthe Francois Girbaud as a contemporary apparel collection fit for the runways, but last season I swear it looked like an over done juniors line. Either way they have moved the iconic white tag to their new brand CLOSED; easily available in specialty retailers in the US.

Interview with Marithe Girbaud

Pretty much it is what Girbaud was 20 years ago when we all lost our heart to them. However, I don’t think the jeans are going to fit the way she wants them to. I would suggest her taking a look at Paige Premium Denim the Skyline or Hidden Hills (higher rise than the skyline).  If she is just looking for that killer pair of everyday understated sexy then get her a pair of the AG Jeans Jessie or Ballad!


Born: Marithé Bachellerie— Lyon, France, 1942; François Girbaud— Mazamet, France, 1945; Started his career in 1965 unveiling his first denim collection 3 years later through the doors of his own Parisian boutique in 1969. He launched Closed for men in 1993, a brand that has hit the contemporary in 2011 marketplace like an anvil.

Emanating from the streets, Marithé and François Girbaud have created fashion that revels design problems of cylinders, mutation,  reversibility; and bringing high-style aspirations to casual materials and fancy effects.

“When interviewed, the designers like to suggest their work is a perfect synthesis of their childhood preoccupations, she with creating doll clothes, he with American pop culture, films, and military outfits. There is truth to this proposition, yet it also is unlikely that these two designers who began as retailers are only pursuing personal desires. The casual clothing they have created is imbued with heritage, even if this legacy is working clothing, brought to the present in technical and even futuristic ways. In the evident conceptualism of their they have expanded the market of casual clothing beyond the young, so their clothes are as appropriate to the market for persons in their 30s and 40s as they are to the primary market for jeans of teens or in their 20s.”

They became bent in their deconstructivist exposing elements of design, parallels Karl Lagerfeld but their medium is more accessible in a hip hop weekend casual carefree flare but have never waivered from being the most innovative, experimental, concept-driven designers.

The Girbaud’s have, in fact, commanded the avant-garde position in casualwear, generally characterized from runways such as Jean-Paul Gaultier or Issey Miyake, thriving on conceptual development and change yet never failing to represent the irrefutable leadership position in the field. Ruth La Ferla, of the Daily News Record, called François Girbaud “three parts fashion technician, one part theoretician. The Girbaud’s are fluent in the language of clothing, playing with the vocabulary, hieroglyphs, and alphabets that continually appear in every collection. François Girbaud told Irene Daria of Women’s Wear Daily, in December 1984, “We design from the streets. We start at the bottom and move up.”

Girbauds were always proponents of fabric innovation with projects such as Blue Eternal, a treated denim that holds its color after multiple trips to the laundry as well as the development of a detergent to revive denim. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, the Girbauds’ designs were  emblematic of utilitarian chic, the jeans were the item kids saved  for months to get a pair, the reward for the report card and what everyone’s high school lust had hanging on his hips.

Marithé et François Girbaud

The Girbaud jeanswear line has suffered ups and downs in the U.S. market. “With its first licensee, V.F. Corporation (currently owns 7 for all Mankind and running it into the gutter), the Girbaud brand reached an estimated $250 million in annual volume in 1992, but after a too-quick expansion and overexposure, sales fell to less than a tenth of its previous high. In 1997 the men’s license was transferred to a new manufacturer, I.C. Isaacs & Company, which added the women’s license a year later. Isaacs struggled financially in the late 1990s and early 2000s, leading it to shed some of its brands.

“Licensing your dream is not recommended… launch your dream, licence the sunglasses and shoes; keep the heart of it your hands. “In an industry where fashion changes with each season, the Girbauds’ clothes have kept the image of comfort while growing in style and versatility to become ‘concept dressing’.”- California Apparel News; 7/1986

The women’s clothing segment accounts for nearly 68% of premium apparel and has affected more than 88% of the female population. With an epidemic such as this you would hope that consumers actually knew what they were buying. However, Italian and French denim brands have a gargantuan market opportunity in the US in women’s wear. The premium denim market is under penetrated in several aspects just waiting for someone to snag it! “I am waiting….”  and they are begging for a denim vision with a little sass and a bit of whoop ass. I read an article that stated that “Isaacs is working to limit distribution in order to prevent the too-fast growth that occurred in the early and mid-1990s.”  Now in 2012, they have limited their distribution right out of the USA and have us bidding on 1992 Girbaud jeans on ebay! Oh Hunnie bear Girbaud, if you want to come back to the US I’ve got enough data for you to nail it; come back to me; I miss you desperately!


The Girbauds have always broke away from the mainstream setting always raising the bar on wash techniques and symmetry.  A true clothier leader and denim pioneer. “Our work is sometimes a little crazy—sometimes we are on the bull’s-eye of fashion and sometimes we are not.”-François.

Thank you for posting and showing your #denim LOVE! Good luck and PLEASE hit me back with your finding!

p.s If you are in Europe- I can find them for you!
Your Butt Therapist



Dear Denim Guru,

I am 55 and 6′ tall and recently lost 34lbs and can wear a size 32 jean. I thought I would try a pair of Levi 514 but people at work said it looked like I was wearing my sons pants. They said something about the straight leg. I went out and bought a pair of lucky low-rise boot cut but was wondering if the boot cut was out of style. I like the low-rise but are they too young for me? I do not want out of date looking jeans… what do you suggest.
Thank You
  • Answer:

    Hey Rick,

    I would think the Lucky low-rise boot cut would look closer to your son’s jeans than ta pair of Levi 514. Boot-cut jeans aren’t dead; the flare is. Frankly, to even find a flare jeans these days is a difficult task; for good reason! Most denim designers have re-created their boot-cut style to be more slim and leg lengthening, For you I would suggest Agave Denim. It’s what men wear! The rise is better than those Lucky’s you’ve got on and not as skinny as them damn Levi’s. Made better than both you’re gonna look no more. Jeff the owner and designer has made sure of that by using only the best fabric in the world and oversee’s them from fiber to shelves. Visith ttp:// and check out their options. One of my favorites is the Maverick in the 7 year selvage.
    NOW $205.00 —–Originally: $305.00

    Slim Fit, Straight Leg, Button Fly Jean – 10.25″ front rise, 17″ knee, 16″ bottom, 36″ inseam.


    Each pair of jeans are signed and numbered.





    Your denim fabric is from the Kurabo Denim Mill, Japan; one of the absolute BEST This 12oz Selvage denim is 100% cotton with a 3 X 1 right hand weave. (this means something.. just take my word..i’ll update the denim dictionary). It has a slight beige tint that has been hand sanded… this means with a hand and a piece of sand paper! Includes side seam brushing, edge grinding, whiskers, chevrons & lightly stonewashed to a dark vintage shade. These jeans have been woven into denim fabric on 29″ vintage American shuttle looms then handcrafted and constructed in California, USA!


    The Butt Therapist