Monthly Archives: October 2011

Geeked Out

 

 

 The True Denim de Luxe

–135 hours, 16,200 hand stitched, completely customized and personalized exclusive luxury #denim–

 

 

           As an artist and Denim Head…I am geeking out on Nadel & Pen hand sewn jeans that are custom made in France. I had the opportunity to catch up with Tilmann Wröbel, couture fashion designer, blueblood, and total nice guy to talk shop with little ‘ol me across an ocean of blue.  This denim collection is none other than the best pair of jeans you will ever have. The ultimate gift to a denim connoisseur and the final piece to any notable denim collection. Go through the process and you will receive a completely custom pair of jeans made with the finest materials with an unrivaled amount of personalization and detail. One hundred percent hand sewn…16,200 stitches, 135 hours of hand work and 3 months of love bleeds into the indigo with the utmost amount of passion for the art of denim making. <<a story worth telling>>


“Singularity is the new vision of luxury”

“Nadel & Pen is neither a a maison de couture, nor a denim brand. It’s a know how, a style, a single object: A custom hand sewn pair of jeans which takes back for the first time, without any machine assistnce; the codes of the most industrialized garment in the world.”-NP

“Nadel & Pen stands for the privilege of offering yourself an exceptional jean. Made in france, custom tailored, it’s sewn by hand in 135 hours using 16,200 stitches” done by HAND; never any type of machine. It is designed with the most notable raw Japanese or Italian fabrications and rarest of trimmings with finishes reminiscent of haute couture Nadel & Pen implies a blend of dominating values Step one [arrive in Paris and introduce yourself to a denim studio in the heart of the city of love] Step two [Select your luxury materials to create your custom jeans] Step three [Tilmann designs and sketches your jeans to your preferences by the hand that Dior trusted] Step four [impatiently wait three months while your jeans are going though the hand making garment process] Step five [receive your exclusive one of a kind custom jeans in a showcase all its own with serial number and certificate of authenticity.]

Step six [WEAR, LIVE, and LOVE]….

When you arrive in Paris, you will have a selection of the finest selvage denim available in the world to choose from. The shank button engraved with your initials or coat of arms if you prefer. Your initials able to be embroidered on the coin or rear pocket… no “brand squiggle on the butt” this is your piece of art made by the artist. Much like commissioning a painting, your canvas is selected raw and the artist creates a piece that is unique to your own tastes. The pocket sacks and lining is made from couture quality silk dupion while the buttons on the fly are made from either horn or mother of pearl. “Horsehair and glaced cotton make up the multi-layered hand-stiched inner lining making it tear proof.” There is nothing common or ordinary about this piece of denim… Haute couture still exists… not found on the runways ie:”ready to wear (RTW)” you may be so familiar with in the pages of Vogue. There are still artisans that create art with a few tools and their hands much like a painter using a brush and a few drops of colored paste to create a perception of reality. When you are able to take the best materials and mold them into an object that has a style and attitude all its own you have created life.  Well, I hope you heard it here first about this new denim loving project that may just be the most coveted pair of jeans in the world.

There are still plenty of secrets so keep your eye on Tilmann Wröbel and check out

Nadel & Pen    +++++++   Monsieur T

for a personal introduction to his creative spaces

Love, The Butt Therapist 10.20.2011

G-Star ladies ONLY!

#denim

Ladies.. we all like a good party and you know G-Star knows how to throw one. Get your ass jacked up in some killer heels and go find some hot jeans for fall!

YOU MUST RSVP- Limited SPACE! SohoRSVP@DenimWallInc.com

See you there!

Thursday October 27th, 7-9pm G-Star Soho [270 Lafayette Street (@Prince)NY,NY]

 

live 55 seconds a day

Always behind Renzo- this Diesel die-hard has exceeded 140 characters being introduced to his eldest son Andrea and his passion that is driving FIFFTYFIVEDSL. I believe in our youth, developing their talents and fueling their fire to chase their individuality. This week I caught a few blown out waves with Maxime- Account Executive for 55DSL-East; followed by a full collection pre-view of Spring 2012.                  

It was 1994 when Andrea launched his vision to empower the creative youth culture with a brand they could embrace and afford while maintaining the quality standards the Rosso family is committed toOriginally a 55 piece capsule collection of sport meets street this Diesel descendent was able to stand on its own by capturing the “active hearts with a DIY attitude.” Growing up in the business An

Worldwide distribution has not diluted the fiftyfiveDSL brand, maintaining is exclusive {have if you’re in the know mentality} skipping the mainstream microphone it is being embraced on the streets and classrooms around the globe. With only one Brick & Mortar location in the US [281 Lafayette Street] in NYC attracts all the “cool” kids; an expression of freedom and style without being a walking billboard. From my own experience it’s when you find yourself that the labels of love retreat to the inside of your clothing rather than being slathered all over your chest. 55DSL female collection is required before the Italian duo DJ Giulia+Elisa Bee start scratchin’.drea was submerged in a world of textiles playing in his father’s warehouse with his brother Stefano. He packed up and left his small town in Italy to study at FIT in New York later and blew out West to Los Angeles where he discovered his ardor for action sports and became addicted to graphic art. Admiration for the talent; his biggest regret has been never learning how to draw. Instead he uses a needle and thread to transform one dimensional fabric into a 3 dimensional piece of art that you can live in. Art is a way of life, passion is a lifestyle and when you can connect the two to create a collection that inspires both; success is inevitable. Andrea wanted nothing more than to create a think tank to empower the young artistic community by seeking out emerging talent for collaborations. “Some call it risky, but he just calls it 55DSL- collaborations are changing the fashion landscape by interesting bringing true individuality, exclusivity and authenticity back into fashion.”- Andrea Rosso

is a collaboration project by selected international artists that have 55DSL’s blessing and full creative freedom to feature one of thier designs to be part of this limited production graphic tee collection; each shirt numbered 1 to 1,055.

<—————– Alex Trochut a graphic designer & illustrator from Barcelona creates eclectic work that is rich with elegant detailed executions; pursuing on ly the constant evolution of his art. “more is more”- Alex

  
Attention fighter jet pilots of the urban jungle, graffiti artists off Wall Street and sidewalk rap stars! Whatever drives and defines you, it’s too precious to change-so never give in to superficial trends and get the apparel that breathes your confidence and connects with YOU.-FIFFTYFIVEDSL    

        Lele Saveri photographer

“What are you up to in San Fratello, Sicily? I’m doing a project based on the theme of fear and I wanted to take pictures of the religious festival which takes place on this small town. Historically,” Read the rest here and Watch Lele’s Movie NOW!

…its round two of 55DSL x adidas Originals as the Experience Enhancer Device II is now available. It is an adidas Originals jacket from the 80’s in honor of cinema’s most famous boxer, served as an inspirational jab for 55DSL.

“You can always seek guidance and direction in life from your star signs; maybe even have your palm read to see your future…but, let’s be honest-life is too intriguing, full of surprises and mysterious to spoil that way. Hold on tight, tie your hair back and dive right in! 55DSelle’s new collection takes all these elements of life and fuses together to create a confident style of sexiness, fun and inspirational design. Whatever turns you on in life, 55DSelle has you covered, looking hot and empowered for anything! Experience this collection, get inspired and feed your hunger for excitement… and finally NEVER LOOK BACK!”-FIFFTYFIVEDSL

 

As most of you know…if you follow regularly; I just picked up and moved to New York City to play in a bigger playground where I could find a few more people that could compete with my passion. Not knowing which brand is going to snatch your talent does not make packing a suitcase the easiest task. All the hoodies and bloglovin’ loungewear disappeared in order to get it zipped… until 55DSL hooked a girl up with the most comfortable gear I have ever kicked around in. While my fingers dance over the keyboard and epic beats kick through my 55DSLxZound headphones I am impressed. The quality is here- the price point is easy and the style is everything I expect from the Rosso family. I will never go back to the comfy’s I’ve left behind even if the line wasn’t made for me (I am old)- I can identify and appreciate everything it stands for.

This Spring ’12 Guys and Girls collection is completely fresh; if you though you new 55DSL be prepared to re-introduce yourself and get addicted. This Christmas could cause a serious epidemic of smiles with the young people in your life. I know my siblings are going to be stoked!  I am pumped… not selling you damn thing. Encouraging people to own themselves, ROCK their BAD-selves, express their artistic talent and follow their passion are characteristic in a brand I can get behind- the fact that it is already a family company that I support is icing on the cake. Here is a quick rundown of some of the collaborations they have done in the past straight from 55DSL’s mouth . Get rowdy and get inspired!

“Celebrating Fifteen Fucking Years in 2009 Adidas Originals came to play by collaborating on a Limited Edition shoe “The XV/55” in the iconic Adidas Nizza model (only 6,000 were produced) and Coca-Cola zero was in the design house with a new contoured Bottle Design Contest in Japan. 15 Designs were used to transform a coke bottle in to a limited edition “55DSL X Coca-Cola Zero” creation. One design was selected to make an exclusive skate deck that was only available in Japan 55DSL stores. Italian Designer Turbokrapfen designed a limited edition 10.55 tribute jacket for renowned “>DJ’s The Bloody Beetroots while the entire year was full of XV anniversary gigs in Los Angeles, Milan, Turnin, and Kobe. 555 pairs of Limited Edition Sunglasses were designed by Barcelona based Vasava including 1555 Senor Blanco. Art toys were created and distributed by Atom Plastic only to a few exclusive doors in New York, London, Milan, Tokyo, Fukuoka, Osaka and Bogota- Kid Robot stores in Miami, San Francisco, Los Angeles and New York. 55DSL x Dim Mak x Ferrino Survival Kit was created in collaboration with Los Angeles-based record label Dim Mak and Italian tent king Ferrino. Packaging designed by Dim Mak’s own Turbokrapfen.55DSL “-FIFFTYFIVEDSL

As an artist, earning a wall to transform into a piece your art is an experience for any record book. TempporArtMilan TemporArt gave T.O.D.O.S., a Spanish collective who draw their inspiration directly on the streets and bard of Madrid. – they got 55DSL walls to scribble on while Turbokrapfen, known for his explosive illustrative artwork christened 55DSL Hong Kong local. Pure admiration for the creative process Andrea and his team sponsor multiple snowboarding competitions, active in the skateboarding, motocross and surf and urban cultures.  At the 2009 Cut&Paste 2D Digital Design Tournament, winner Calvin Kwok, a young vibrant graphic artist from Hong Kong was selected to design a 55DSL capsule collection exclusively for YOOX.com. These are the ways 55DSL continues to show their passion for design and support creative freedom.

HOW TO GET YOUR GEAR………………..

You can buy the entire collection online because they ship to the US of A BUTT, I always recommend walking across a threshold. The 55DSL Fall ’11 guys collection is currently hanging in the San Francisco and Santa Monica Diesel stores in Cali. If you call New York home; I am! You can snag it at Diesel’s 5th Avenue, Union Square, and Lexington locations. Need a 360 degree FIFFTYFIVEDSL experience- Get your toosh to [281 Lafayette Street New York, NY 10012]. If you have epic waves rather then my blown out mess and in the 808; 55DSL graphic tee’s live in the Ala Moana & Waikiki Diesel Stores. Ladies, don’t get your panties in a bunch, this Spring the Girls Collection will also be available in Diesel-Santa Monica. In the mean time get online if you can’t get in a store. There are games, fonts, movies, and major random stuff that is hella cool on the 55DSL web world.

Now you know The 55DSL logo is inspired by the 70’s sports era with a 90’s flare. Being Renzo’s favorite number the negative space between the two five’s create the iconic angel symbol; representing a stylization of an independence movement. Skate, surf, shread,  mix, snap, create, chase, love and

 ………………..live at least 55 seconds a day!

Written by: Casey Golden aKa The Butt Therapist 10.17.11 

DENIM-Made in the USA

 

PART I: pub. 10/17/2011 #denim

The denim market is one of the most aggressive growing apparel markets in history that has directly affected our social normality; running parallel to that of computer electronics. Cotton prices have risen to an all time high; causing the denim industry to adjust. Demands for consumer price stability and margin maintenance have become two of the most important business aspects that are causing all businesses to refine their strategies during our questionable economic times. Thus, sending many manufactured goods overseas to be produced in order to keep companies in business and consumers happy with the prices they are used to. Denim has been coined an “American thing” however, are we loosing that “nickname” as more denim is being produced outside the USA. I would hope that the USA will retain its position as the largest denim consumer market (2010) and become the denim production Mecca of the world.  Real Men Real Style and The Butt Therapist have come together for a little denim education and highlight a few denim addicted Americans designers that are making an industry statement by communicating their personal integrity through their business operations by producing denim products that are Made in the USA. “You can support your country one jean at a time.”

From the beginning of Levi Strauss in 1869, the work man’s functional uniform, to casual Friday’s, and denim debuting on catwalks across the globe. Denim has gone beyond the borders and the social benches to create global social unity or as I like to refer as “the blue universal language”. When it comes down to spending your dollar wisely more people are making it a priority to find out where the products they buy are produced and an increased number of consumers are taking the company’s mission into consideration when deciding who to support before they hand their hard-earned dollar over the counter. The level of competition with-in various Jeanswear segments are at war with each other as they have been required to rethink their business and operation strategies to become most effective and streamline their manufacturing and distribution processes. The top three challenges companies are trying to prioritize are:

  • Achieving Consumer Price Stability
  • Maintaining the Brand’s Heritage
  • Increasing Market Growth

Today a single product can visit as many as 8 countries before achieving product completion and being sale ready. To help you figure out where your dollar is going and decide where it will be going for future purchases we’ve broken it down to US denim mills, denim manufacturers, independent denim designers, and even a few retail stores that focus on selling only Made in USA products. It all starts with a piece of cotton and 25,000 farmer-owners that are committed to continually improving the denim manufacturing process.

American Cotton Growers (ACG) has a total capacity of 38 million  yards of denim produced annually which is approximately 26 million pair of jeans; making them a major supplier of denim fabric to the jeans market for 35 years. Plains Cotton Cooperative Association is a farmer–owned,cotton marketing, warehousing, denim manufacturing and jean production cooperative headquartered in Lubbock, Texas. All from Littlefield, TX SafeDenim is “Sustainable, American and Friendly to the Environment”. Owned and operated by The American Cotton Growers—or ACG—and its farmer-owners are focused on developing high quality denim fabrics for our customers with minimal impact on the environment. American cotton literally created from field to fabric. For them it’s a multi-generational commitment to ensure our children and grandchildren can farm the land. We’re protecting our ecosystems for these future generations by remaining good stewards of the land, air and water. We value doing the right thing, in the right place, in the right way, at the right time, and it requires the use of new technologies.” -SafeDenim/ACG

Denim North America is the most modern textile plant in North America and committed to their manufacturing process to be 100%.

 Made in the USA. They are developing and distributing innovative fabric to premium denim companies for global distribution. The newest innovation is the release of EverFlex (6/1/2011); a denim fabric that may be found as the next pair of jeans you buy. What this means is that any jean that has the patented EverFlex label is Made in the USA; even if the denim company chooses to constructs it’s denim outside the USA you can find comfort knowing that the fibers and production of the fabric are 100% USA Made. The EverFlex fabric is projected to hit the premium denim market that may include brands such as: True Religion, Lucky, 7 for all Mankind, Hudson and possibly Gap. So, EverFlex… is a NEW patented stretch denim fabric that retains its shape better than any other cotton based denim blend on the market to date. This means no more bagging out, stretching out, break in period or droopy butts.

White Oak Denim Mill (Greensboro, NC.) has been manufacturing denim since 1905 making jeans for a plethora of denim brands that put quality first. Cone Denim offers a denim companies to create collections that are 100% USA Made. Denim Brands like Loomstate, True Religion, Agave, and Paul Smith’s Red Ear are just a few examples.

“I walked in-between a web of 350 strands of cotton dancing in the air across a 100 year old wood floor that united each organized chaotic piece of thread into a rope the width of a silver dollar that was slapped around a ball warping machine. It looked like a giant friendship bracelet being made. Tchaikovsky would have been inspired for a melody and the orchestra would follow the rhythm of the 30 original shuttle looms that weave in unison and send an unduplicitable vibration through your bones; I could have stood there for an eternity.  Possibly one of my most beautiful experiences confirming that I am a Denim Dork!”-The Butt Therapist

There are employees that have worked at White Oak for over 30 years. The stories they have of the process changes that have happened over the years through technology advancements and industry innovation with blends, dye, finishing treatments, and trends have warped through the decades makes for its own story. Making denim as an art itself; a magnificent creative process from a single cotton fiber to your favorite jeans on your toosh. Right-hand twill, Left, Flame woven, blends, slubs, and weaving patterns.  Even with over 100 years of producing some of the best quality denim in the world even they are feeling the pinch with the economic changes that have forced more apparel brands to find manufacturing resources overseas in order to keep the COGS down as consumers are becoming less likely to pay premium prices for denim made in the USA. Every business that produces a product must retain a certain amount of margin to self-adjust and absorb changing production costs: cotton, fuel, shipping, labor, innovation, and quite frankly to keep them in business while the economy stabilizes and sales projections can begin to be more accurate.  “We feel it comes down to education and passion” Lawson Nikol is a passionate denim head that is interested in a Blue Revolution. Co-founder Nikol of All American Clothing Company  (based in Arcanum, OH) discovered on a retail floor that the company he proudly worked for by distributing USA Made Denim had been outsourced. This marked the beginning of him launching his own company to attempt to keep some denim Made in the USA to “support the heritage of jeans, American families and the American Dream.”- AAC. All American Clothing Company is the only listed denim manufacturer listed as Made in the USA Certified. Each jean is given a “Certificate of Authenticity” that allows you to trace the exact location your jeans were produced.  You can buy All American Clothing collections online and in selected retail posts from California to New York City. The Nickol family prides itself on producing products patrons can be proud to wear.  The family and the employees believe “The USA label will always stay on our jeans because you and we understand the importance of USA Made. When you buy a pair of All American Jeans our label also means; Thank you from us, our employees and the people in our country who still have good jobs due to folks like you. Thank you from all of us.” -Nikol

Handcrafted Denim from an artist to a collector; the process is worth the penny…

Roy Slaper is a single man handcrafting each pair of jeans Roy Denim available to buy only at Self Edge for around $275.00. Beginning in his apartment teaching himself how to sew; he now has one of the most impressive sewing machine collections and jeans in the USA! Roy feels that jean making is a lost art.  It is not often enough that we think about our clothing as someone else’s work and trying to measure how much “work” went into the design and construction of our favorite shirt let alone our favorite pair of jeans. Roy experimented with many garments but made a business by designing and creating custom jeans. He learned as he went, taught himself a craft and refined it to just one thing; Denim, available in 2 styles, made perfectly by hand in Oakland, CA. He uses only the highest grade denim fabric that is he believes in and has worked with Cone Denim on several occasions to produce his ideal denim fabric.

 I wrote a 31 page article about Denim; Made in the USA however, overwhelming you with information is not my goal. Consider this PARTI of the Denim Saga.

All my denim love,

The Butt Therapist

———————————–Don’t forget to check out Antonio with Real Men Real Style

 

 

Lauren returns to Agave Nectar

Lauren Shafer, head designer for Agave Nectar Collection has put together a Fall 2011 collection that has all the elements that make the seasonal transition exciting. This is Lauren’s first full collection after returning from her 16 year “stay at home mom” hiatus. Now that the kids are older Jeff persuaded her to return designing together as the denim duo has been unstoppable. Lauren is as fanatical about fit as I am. She is an expert pattern maker and this season she made all of her own first samples. The fall 2011 collection consists of over 17 different styles of both denim and denim alternatives that are made of the finest Italian fabrics. Leather jackets have been added to the collection this fall to layer over an assortment of Supima cotton knits and sweaters.

I had the opportunity to meet Lauren a few months back while I tried on a pair of killer pink skinny’s. It was my first fit test since the original launch of Nectar in 2007. Her pattern making skills are nothing to be taken lightly. She has managed to translate a fit that directly affects our first instance in a fitting room; when you twist your hips and look over your shoulder in the mirror. The curved waistband and pocket placement is one of my ultimate favorites across the board. The Nectar denim collection is strong in value, integrity, quality and design. The sizes run true and the fabrics feel absolutely amazing. While the colors are rich and vibrant I have found that the dye is holding up in the wash and my jeans have worn in nicely; exceeding my initial expectations. So, if 7 for all Mankind’s pockets are too low for you,  if Paige Premium Denim’s are to high or if AG’s are too large than you just might find that Agave Nectar is the perfect fit. I must have a pair of White Oak Selvage this year as a souvenir from my tour of the denim mill in Greensboro, NC earlier this year.

 

Lauren’s top picks for fall are:

 

Dark Denim in supersoft & superstetch fabrics that go through an “Ozone washing” process that uses less water in production.

The Gothic grape colored denim

Italian vintage cords are a season must in wine or soft blue

The Chica jegging  in black Italian velvet is perfect for the Holiday’s

Supima cotton sweaters in rich color tones make fall just a little bit warmer

 

“New Fall fits “Listo” and “Fortuna” slim fit in a medium higher rise trouser and the Fusta riding jegging is one of my favorites!”– Lauren

“Lauren has a thorough understanding of the essence of the Agave brand and lifestyle. She embodies the same passion for design as her husband, but had chosen not to work outside the home because of her commitment to her family, a struggle every mother faces. This new move will enable the husband and wife team to work together and build a stronger women’s and men’s product offering in the coming seasons.  

Lauren Shafer has been sewing since she was thirteen, designing and making her own clothes through high school and graduating from FIDM in 1982.  Before deciding to park her career to become a full time mom, Lauren racked up over 12 years as pattern maker and designer in both the women’s and men’s sides of the business. She co-founded BC Ethic with Jeff Shafer and Ty Bowers in the early 90’s. When the couples’ first son Jacob was born, Lauren cut back working until replacements could be found. However she never gave up her passion for design and kept busy with design projects both inside and outside the home.

“The time is right for me take this on and work with Jeff and the rest of the team. My boys are very independent and so far are not being affected by my absence after school, as they are so busy themselves.  I am enjoying letting my creativity and passion grow now that I have the time to design again. Jeff and I work as a great team together and I have always understood and shared the passion for the brand that he does,” says Lauren Shafer.

 Fall 2011 will be Lauren’s first full collection as designer and it encompasses many categories including denim, corduroy, cotton twills, knitwear, sweaters and leather pieces. She has experimented with the design and production team for this first season to create a collection that is choc-a- bloc full of luxury fabrics and color as well as style.  A woman who enjoys quality and looks for the confidence and effortless elegance in design will love all the Fall 2011 collection brings.  “My collection consists of wonderful pieces that I would love to wear.”– Agave Denim Press Release 9/2011 By: Zoe Campbell

View the entire fall collection at www.agavedenim.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Butt Rip Joke

It’s that time of the month when I team up with Kim from Butt-Check to send you a friendly reminder to schedule a visit to your doctor. Colon Cancer happens and we don’t want it to happening to you. Start your morning off with a laugh and get your butt checked this afternoon.

 

All our Awareness love,

Casey, The Butt Therapist and Kim, The Butt Lady